Troublesome Customers

added August 2007

I have a problem saying no. I always squeeze people in and then I get stressed. Then it seems the ones you go out of your way for are the ones that complain. I just had one bridesmaid today. She had a fitting before and we were going to take the dress out in the bust. That was the only alteration it needed. Well, she comes back for a fitting, pregnant, and it is now my fault that it doesn’t fit in the hips! She told me she wasn’t paying for alterations because I did such a shoddy job. I told her the money didn’t matter to me, but I didn’t want the rest of the bridesmaids coming in expecting free alterations because she threw a fit. Yes, I could have held onto the dress until she paid, but it wasn’t worth the whopping $12 I was charging her.

Sorry, didn’t mean to start complaining. Just when I was thinking how I’d only had happy brides lately, then I have to deal with bridesmaidzilla! I have more problems with bridesmaids and moms than I do with brides. I had one mom that kept having a fit because the dress still touched the floor after it was bustled. I don’t know about you, but most brides I work with, do want it still sweeping the floor in back. The mom kept yelling “It can’t touch the floor!”. Now mind you this is a garden wedding for which the train will be down, but it is not allowed to touch the floor during the reception. Oops, there I go again.

Well, happy sewing!

Wow, she got pregnant and it's your fault. Golly, some people! I have a new rant on my site about women letting themselves get pregnant and then claiming it was something that happened to them, like they had no choice in the matter. I can be a real hard case when it comes to ladies pulling stuff like that on me. I do not let them walk on me. I do good work and I know it. So do they. They are simply pulling this sh!t to get at you because they don't want to admit they are truly responsible.

Hang in there, Lynanne, and don't let them get you down. I know how hard it can get. I'll make you a deal - You are welcome to write any complaints here any time, if it's ok that I can write some to you too.

Accepting a Rush Job

added April 2006

Leanna
I need help!I am being asked to do the impossible in 4 weeks.This dress Has designer finishes that are impossible to recreate without a large Pain in my neck.The girl has a fitted gown that if fully boned and lined And beaded AND is 3-6" too SMALL(She just gave birth to a lovely baby Girl) up top.It has a zipper covered by a strip of covered buttons.The Bodice is strapless covered in beaded netting with cording in geometric Patterns but is not solid.There are two lines of material separating it Kinda like this:
Top of breasts front
Netting and beading
________________________________________________________
White Material same as
The dress 6" gap
________________________________________________________
Center breast Netting and beading
_________________________________________________________
White Material same as the dress
______________________________________________________
Upper stomach Netting and beading 3" gap
End of bodice
Skirt1/2" too small

I thought of adding a panel at the side seams but I think it would mess Up the lines of the dress (trim) and the boning will need to be Moved(placement issues) .I am afraid that I may have to replace the Whole bodice.The dress has been cleaned and needs a some beading touch Ups. Geez. it is hard to explain.Do you have any suggestions? I know you Can not see the dress.She got the dress second hand. Her mom does not Want to pay much either......She says she does not care what I do to it as long as it fits.Her wedding is in 4 weeks and I think she may have to be duct taped together and covered with a shawl(I told her mom that today).LOL. Over my head in more ways than one-sorry about the rant
Leslieanne in Wa

What ever you do to this dress is going to be expensive in using your brain power and your time and sewing skills. You need to be paid for all these things - YOU deserve it!

The options -
1. Piecing at the side seams. This always looks bad in my opinion but it's an option. Getting fabric that matches the dress is very hard. In telling them this option they must understand that you are not responcible for the fabric that is available in the stores in your area.

2. Piecing at the zipper. This has the same fabric defficulty as the sides but you can be creative here and add something different because it will look like a design set into the back.

3. Replace the bodice. This is a viable option that can save you the other problems. You still have the fabric to find that matches the skirt, but it will be much easier than the piecing options. If they want the original bodice recreated, it will be a huge job. You can offer to do a simple bodice without the layers for a lower price.

4. Buy a dress that fits.

Have each option ready for them with the pros and cons. Have a very high price for each option. In fact, double your normal prices. This is rush and they need to pay you accordingly. Tell them the option and pricing for each and let them pick the option they like best. Do not haggle with them. The prices are not nagotiable, just the choice of option. You do not have time for haggling and this job is going to be hard enough no matter what they choose. There is alway option #4.

This is the type of job I try to not accept at the first phone call. They are going to blame you for all their troubles, even the ones not tied to the dress. They are trying to pull together a wedding with no resourses and rushed. Not good for anyone. Don't let their sence of urgency or lack of funds effect you. Be professional and stay calm no matter what they say - for they may say many things that will surprise you.

I am very busy this week, but I also always have the computer on. If you feel frustrated or just have a question I will try to help. You do understand that my not being able to see the dress does make this really hard, but the options are usually the same no matter what the gown's design is.

I hope I have helped a little.
Return to Topics

Starting a Bridal Business

added January 2005

I am interested in starting a salon in the Metro Detroit area. If you could give me any information on the "how to's" it would be greatly appreciated. I was wondering if you would be able to give your opinion on the likely hood of a business of this type being a success and your hints on what you feel is the most important. Anything that would be helpful. Thanks so much...Judi

Have you ever worked in the bridal industry before? Having some experience under your belt would be of great help to you. Brides are hard to deal with. When you understand that her wedding day is the most important day of her life and that she has been dreaming and planning it for years, you can see why it is hard. Starting a new business is hard enough. Starting a new business in the bridal industry is not for the faint of heart.

The likelihood of success is very low these days for independent Bridal salons. The big chains have so much more to offer. Unless you are planning on locating way on the outskirts of Detroit, it's going to be an uphill battle.

I wish you the best and hope you find the success you are looking for.
Return to Topics

When You've Done All You Can

added October 2004

I own a bridal store. A plus size bride bought a gown for $600.00. She later brought in a friend when we were swamped, along with a large bridal party. They also purchased from us bridal gown and maids dresses. The bride was upset that the $98.00 dollar gown was going to cost her more because she was a plus size. Her fiance came in a few days later to complain how we hurt her feelings and made her cry. We were dumbfounded. We wrote her a note of apology, absorbed the cost and treated her and three other guests to a breakfast buffet at an elegant restaraunt. For her four bridesmaids, the suggested retail was $160.00 we charged $135.00 and gave free jewelry valued at $29.95. Two of her girls wanted to diet because they didn't want to pay the plus size fee. One measured size 22 but wanted size16. I ordered a 16 & 20, just in case. The other measured size 26 but wanted a 22. I ordered a 22 and a 24. I showed the ladies the charts in advance and the prices that were additional. I don't pull extra charges out of the air but I do curb them in cases like these. She felt that I did a poor job in measuring since her girls needed alterations and that they needed an apology and retribution. The dresses were late due to a new staff member at P.C. Mary's who screwed our order up and the company backs us up. I gave my home phone number out and offered to come out after store hours so they could pick up their dresses, which they weren't anxious to pick up. I feel I went above and beyond what would you do? Kathy

A bride bought a gown from you that cost only $98.00 and had the gall to complain? And then had her groom complain too??? You got taken. I'm against shop owners treating brides poorly, but it goes the other way too. It's sometimes better to let some customers walk than to worry about the money you are loosing. The customers in this party were not worth your kindness and I bet you had many nights of headaches for your great efforts in pleasing these silly women. They are not the type to give out any recommendations to friends, and if they do you really don't want more of this type of customer. I would have advised you to stand firm on the prices at the beginning and if the customer doesn't like it - let them walk! It keeps the question on the prices and doesn't give them an opportunity to effect you personally. Trying to explain and teach them doesn't usually help matters. They get to thinking you are simply making stuff up to save yourself the trouble of doing it the way they want.

That's one of the reasons I started the Bridal section of my site. To educate brides before they go to the store so the store can do a better job for them. There is so much brides don't understand about the processes of getting their gown. It's so very different from buying other clothing that it's hard for a first time bride to know what she is getting into.

You did everything in you power to please these ladies. Aside from the trouble your supplier gave you, you should be proud of the fine service you provided. Orders often come in late even when no mistakes are made. Brides need to chill about stuff like this. Just remember that your desire to please your customers needs to be balanced with making the profit your business needs to survive. It's sometimes a hard choice to make, but by what you have written, I think you have what it takes. Some customers will never be pleased no matter what you do for them.
Return to Topics

Dealing with Dirty Dress

added August 2003

Hello Leanna;
I wrote to you a few weeks ago asking for advice. I have a wedding that I am making bridesmaid dresses for 6 ladies, and two of them are pregnant. Well.... make that three... I got another phone call from one girl who had just had her final fitting two days before finding out that she was expecting.

The reason I am emailing you today is that I had a bride bring me a gown this weekend. She only had the dress on for a few minutes when I lifted the train to see what I was in for when it came to bustling it... to both of our horrifying surprise, the entire underside of the train was absolutely filthy. Not just dusty, or "tried on"... it looked like it had been drug across a parking lot after the rain. UGH!!!

I asked her if she had purchased the dress as new, and she assured me that it was. Upon further inspection, I found that this was not the only "soiled" area on the gown. The more I looked the more I found... everything from make-up on the inside of the bodice to black greasy smears on the ends of the satin ties that lace up the back. I have never seen such a mess.

Of course the bride and her mother were devastated. So was I. I have altered many gowns from second hand shops, yard sales, bargain basements, and never have I seen such filth.

The dress was purchased new at a so called Bridal Shop which boasts of their three floors of immaculate Bridal Gowns and the most excellent customer service, blah blah blah...

First thing monday morning the bride called the shop to see what the deal was. She thought she was purchasing a new gown, what was the deal? She drove nearly three hours to this shop, and when she found the dress it was perfect... she never dreamed it would become such a nightmare.

She was told that because she paid cash for the dress the day of the sale... cash and carry... that the store wasnt responsible for having the dress cleaned. Had she put a deposit on the dress and came back later, they would have cleaned and pressed it for her for free.

All they would offer her is a voucher for her gas to drive the dress back down there and they would clean it.

To me, this is ridiculous. We are talking a lot of time, driving three hours one way... and then having to go back to get it when it was clean. They told me, that this is common. They have no control over how dirty the dresses get from patrons trying them on, and that it was "Normal".
To me, this much filth is NOT normal... I have seen gowns looking better AFTER the reception, than this dress looks coming straight from the store. I would be embarassed to allow anyone to try such a thing on... let alone actually let them walk out the door with it, cash and carry or not.

She called a few different cleaners in the area, no one will touch it. I have offered to do what I can to get it clean, but I cant make any promises... I dont even want to touch it in the condition it is in. The bridal shop says it will come clean by handwashing and spot cleaning with Tide.

My point is... how can they call this a new dress... NO WAY.

The bride is so upset, and having medical problems(stress induced) and cant take time off work to take the dress all the way back to them for cleaning.

What do you think... Have you ever ran into this?

Thanks again...
Robin.

No, I have had dirty gowns but the bride knew what she was buying and had the cleaning in the plans already. My first question is, Didn't she look at the dress before she took it from the store? If it was as filthy as you say she should have noticed something when she picked it up. And if the store had it wrapped for her "easy pick-up" she should have smelled something rotten going on. Sorry to say, but stores do do this kind of thing. It is also possible that your bride is not being totally honest to you. I find it odd that she drove 3 hours to pick up her special gown, paid for it, did not inspect it and drove home.

Bottom line is this is her problem, not yours. You do care for your customers in a professional way, but you can't let it get to you. Sure you want to be more than a robot sewing on their gowns, but you need to keep perspective too. Professionalism is often a fine line that is very hard to define. The gown has obviously been used. Wether the store let it be used and then sold it as new is probably never going to be admitted and they don't have to either. Your bride was either too trusting or just naive about bridal store policies. Unfortunately, they win. Since she paid cash she doesn't have the option of issuing a chargeback through her credit card company. She can report them to the Better Business Bureau, or sue them, but neither is going to help her get ready for her special day.

The only option I see for you is to wash the dress by hand. It's not easy because it's nerve racking, but if you can't find a cleaners who will take on the job there's not much else you can do. Simply put it in the bath tub and soak it in a mild cleaner like Orvis. Many Antique companies us this brand to clean vintage items that are very fragile. I am attaching a discussion I saved from my professional message board some time ago. It's about home cleaning products you can mix yourself. It may be of some help. You should be able to get most of the grime off this way. I would not rub the gown with any vigor. Maybe a little gentile swishing at the most stained areas, but not anything harder. The hardest part will be the drying. I would just hag it to drip dry for a day or 2.

It's hard to say any more without knowing the type of fabric and seeing the dress. I hope this helps.
Return to Topics

Opening Bridal Salon

added November 2003

Dear Leanna,
I am currently in the planning process of starting a bridal salon. It has been a dream for me since I planned my wedding to open a shop that caters to the bride and the whole wedding party. customer service is my selling point! I found your advice to be refreshing that their are honest people that are working towards fulfilling a brides dream. I feel very strongly about this because my experience was a bad one.
Of course, I would love to make a profit out of selling bridal gowns but, for me it is more about a dream, goal, and calling.
They say that there comes a point in your life where you know what it is you want to do. This is it.

Thank you for your advice.
Sincerely, Naomi

I hope you find what you are looking for, but keep in mind that a business runs on profit and you have to make money to exist. If you don't make a profit you can not stay in business. One of the biggest things I had to come to grips with when I was starting out is making decisions based on money. I hated it, but I had to get used to it because I had to make a living. You feel cheep at first, like you are selling your love, but it gets easier when you realize that you are not coping out, just surviving.

And Brides are tough customers not to mention their Mothers, Maids and sometimes the Groom. They can be very mean trying to get what they want at your expense. The big trick is giving them what they want but not letting yourself loose in the process. I think the biggest advice I can give you is to listen very carefully to them, to what they say and don't say. Take extra time to show them that you do sincerely care about their dreams. I think that my best asset is my attitude. I hardly ever get a bride trying to run over me because I think they can tell I'm on their side. When a question comes up I listen to the bride's concerns and answer them as best I can or find an answer that she can live with. It's not always her first choice, but if you are patient and give her time to think things over, most brides are reasonable. I think the trick is to let her make the decision. Give her options and prices for each and let her decide. Just don't leave her with no options. I think that's what gets them upset the most.

I hope this helps, and Good Luck!

Return to Topics

Pricing Bridal Alterations

added November 2003

Leanna;
I came across your site while surfing and looking for affordable dressmakers form, believe it or not.. I was so impressed that I just spent forty-five minutes here. WOW!!

I am also a seamstress, and have just opened my own shop. I have done alterations for friends and family since high school, and am the person everyone called when they couldn't find the right dress or gowns for whatever occasion from prom to weddings. But I have never been paid for my work, I never knew what to charge.

Twenty-two years later, here I am, taking a very scary yet exciting plunge into owning my own business and trying desperately to make it profitable, yet affordable to the customer. Since I am just starting out, I have been hitting a lot of sites, and have read more Q&A than anyone should ever be subjected to in a life time... but most of my Q's still don't have A's.

I have already experienced most of the situations that you spoke about on your site, for instance, right now, I am custom making bridesmaid dresses for a wedding which has not one, but two pregnant attendants. One will deliver 3 to 4 weeks before the event, and the other will be seven months along. If I didn't know the bride so well, I would strangle her. But so far, it looks like everything is going to work out well.

Pricing is my biggest problem. I know what "THE" bridal shop in our small community charges for everything from alterations to hemming, and pressing. I was so shocked. I just chalked it up to overhead, which I have very little of. But after visiting your site, I am convinced that I am selling myself short. When I gave up my management position for a well known fabric chain I didn't intend to become independently wealthy, but I don't want to cheapen my talent or my expertise by being to cheap. Where is the happy medium? I kind of figure that as long as I am under the pricing of the bridal shop, I will be doing just fine.

So far, each of my clients have had no problem when I tell them what the bill is, other than to raise an eyebrow at the cost, and then slip a few extra bucks in on the side. I guess this means that I am under priced.

I love what I do, and the fact that I can be home with my teenage boys. My shop consists of a modest 16' x 16' building that my husband built on our property.

Any additional information you can pass along would be greatly appreciated, and I will bookmark your site so I can visit when I get the chance to check on any updates.

Best of luck to you... You are truly an inspiration.

Robin.

Funny you should ask because I've just been searching this really neat site I just found out about and it has some really good information on it. I'm adding links to many of my bridal pages for this site. It's http://www.bridesave.com/
There's a very good Alteration price list there that I think will be very helpful for you.

Everyone asks about pricing. It's actually illegal for me to share my prices with other seamstresses, so I generally don't. I've tried to give good advice on how to develop your own list on my HomePro section. Now this list is not from someone who is sewing so I would think it could not be called price fixing. It is really close to what I charge in most areas.

I think this is what you are looking for. Good Luck

added April 2009

Return to Topics

Piecing Gown Sideseams

I'm wondering if you'd be able to point me in the right direction. I have a bridesmaid's gown that I need to alter, let out about 2 inches, in the hip area. There is no let out room (fabric) on the side seams but there is a small detachable train that I could possibly snatch some fabric from. Where/what is the best way to attack this? Any advice you can offer is greatly appreciated.

Thank you LaTonya

My what a job you have to tackle!
Well, first you need to determine how much fabric you need to make the pieces to put into the side seams. Than figure out where you can get that size piece out of the train. In your figures, remember that you have to include seam allowances, consider grain. You can't just cut any piece any which way. For one thing, a bias piece would not make a good working side panel. A piece of satin going the opposite way from the grain of the bodice will look like a totally different color.

There's not much more specific advice I can offer not knowing what the dress looks like or how it and the train are constructed. I generally do my best to seek other alternatives to this solution. Putting small pieces into side seams always ends up looking awkward in my opinion. If the piece is 4" or wider it tends to look more like it was meant to be there, but 2" just plain looks bad. The only way around it is if you can put some type of decoration over the piecing, like lace on a wedding gown. Since this is a bride's maid, I doubt you have that option.

Good luck with however you decide to tackle it.

Return to Topics

Horsehair in Hem?

added November 2002

I am shortening a gown with quite a full skirt. I fitted the bride without the horsehair in the hem. Will adding the horsehair make it appear shorter? If so how much do you suggest lengthening the dress?

Yes, it could, but only a hair (LOL).

Sorry, I couldn't resist. But you are thinking correctly. Horsehair doesn't really take up length, but it changes the flow of the hem and stiffens it so that it may seem shorter. I would put the horse hair into the hem, but do not cut out the excess fabric until your bride tries it on again. If you have a lot of fabric, you can trim it within 2" of the horsehair for the fitting and then trim it close after she has walked around some to get the feel of the length and the flow with the horsehair in there.

Don't worry that removing the horsehair (because she thinks the gown is now too short) will give you extra work. I've been doing brides for over 20 years and have never had one decide to change the length because of the horsehair. So, odds are you bride will like the length.

Also, having her come in for an extra fitting may seem to you asking too much, but most brides react positively to the extra precautions. After all, the gown is the most important item she has to take care of for her perfect wedding to work.

Hope this answers your question ;)

Bridal How To's?

I have been sewing since my high school years and now in my mid thirties. I have just been recently presented with an opportunity to receive alteration jobs through a Bridal shop. I would like to know if there are any lessons or collections of useful tips on common techniques used with Bridal alterations. Any other useful tidbits would be appreciated. If there are any other websites that would help me I would certainly appreciate the information. Thank you!
Michele

Unfortunately, I know of no good source for bridal alteration instruction. One of the main reasons I want to write some, but that won't happen anytime soon. My grand ideas of writing lessons for doing all types of alterations got interrupted by several inconveniences. I don't know when I'll be able to get back to writing. I have several hundred pictures stored up just needing the text written. Wish I could just dictate it to the computer and have it format and proofread it. Maybe someday in the future computers will be more help, but for now, they are just another tool that is sometimes more of a time waster than a time saver.

I do have a notification list of folks who have written an interest in my lessons. I send out mailings whenever I get done with another lesson. That hasn't happened lately, but you are certainly welcome to get on the list.

One last thought - - - Bridal alterations may seem difficult to a beginner, but they really aren't that complicated. Just think of it as a white dress. A very important, sentimental dress, but for alteration purposes, it's still a dress.

Here's a few simple rules to help you out:

1. Never look at the price tag. The price doesn't matter - and knowing it will only make you nervous.

2. Never cut off anything until the bride has tried on the dress and gives definite approval for the fit or drape, or even the way it feels.

3. In general:
a) Try on dress and determine what to adjust.
b) remove decoration (beads, lace, etc.)
c) do the adjustment,
d) try it on, repeat a) through c) if necessary
e) trim and finish seams,
f) reapply decoration.

4. It's not so much important what you do to the dress, but how the bride feels about the fit and your competence. Feeling good is often more important than the technical fitting or sewing questions when it comes to bridal alterations.

5. The bride is the boss. Always remember that this is her big day. Your ideas of what is "right" or "proper" have no place, unless she asks you for your advice. If she does, give it simply with short, supportive reasons. Let her make any and all decisions.

Return to Topics

The Second Fitting- Comfort

Second fittings are usually not as tense as first fittings but there are many pitfalls that can be avoided if you are prepared. At the first fitting you set an atmosphere of comfort that the bride should remember when she arrives for her second fitting. This will be of immeasurable worth to this session and any others that are needed. So the bride's initial nervousness of the first session should now be replaced with trust and instead of worrying about everything she has to accomplish, she should be anticipating a problem free appointment that will make her feel like she is truly accomplishing something.

The first thing she will be concerned about is to see how the work you've done so far is coming. She puts on the dress and first checks how it looks. She may start criticizing that it is not tight enough because she needs to have a gorgeous figure on her special day. The younger the bride the more likely she will be to want her dress tighter than it really ought to be. You do need to try to explain that this will stress the zipper and all the seams, but she may ignore your warnings. Here is when you have to decide that fine line between the old adage that the customer is always right and your responsibility to impart professional, quality work.

This is very difficult. Sometimes pinning the dress tighter and not telling her you do not intend to resew the seam may work. It may also only gain you the same argument at the third fitting. Usually the best thing to do is to tighten the seam and reinforce it as best you can. You may also make her sign a waver stating that you advised her against this. But usually, if you have gained her trust, she will listen to your advice if you give it in a way that lets her make the choice.

As a rule, I simple do as the bride asks. I avoid any squabbling over how the dress should look. I do often ask, "How do you feel?", to get her mind off her "looks" and thinking about comfort. I also say, "It's important that you feel good in the dress for it to make you look good."

Comfort is also important because she is going to be in this dress for many hours. She has to be able to dance, hug, eat and sit. Explaining that comfort is the most important factor when you think of all the activities she will be doing, will make her less likely to ask for unreasonable changes.

You attitude is key here. If you start feeling nervous at her unreasonable requests, she will pick up on it and be even more unreasonable. She may not realize she is doing it either. You need to stay calm no matter what and explain things to her. Your calmness will also rub off on her and will help you both to do what is best for the dress.

Return to Topics

The First Fitting- Alterations

Just like any new customer you meet for the first time you want to show a bride that you expected her and are ready to give her your attention. I usually try to stop whatever project I'm working on about 10 minutes before her expected arrival and place out the things I will need for the fitting. These include a box of pins, mirror, invoice, price list and my special Bridal labor form. The price list is to let her know that I am not just picking dollar amounts out of the air perhaps charging her more because of the car she came in. The Bridal form is handy because it gives me more room to write down descriptions of tasks than the invoice doesn't have space for, that's just for price listing.

One of the most important things I feel you can do at the first fitting is to take a little time out while she unveils the gown. Look it over admiringly and mention some aspect that you find unique or lovely. That may become hard to do once you've seen hundreds of gowns and they all start looking alike, but there is always something special about each, if only that it is special to your bride. So find something nice to say. "What lovely beadwork", "This fabric is gorgeous", "What a unique design" or if there's no decoration, "Simplicity is so elegant, don't you think?" (Which I actually believe anyway.) You get the idea.

Carry this attitude through the fitting. The gown will have problems, that's why she is there, but do not criticize the gown itself or your bride's body. The bride is going to be self conscious anyway, and may even criticize her figure herself.. To the best of your ability keep your statements positive. Instead of saying, "The bodice is too big." You can say, "A little nip here in the side seam will give you a lovely waistline." This will help her to see that even though her figure isn't perfect, she can still look like a princess on her wedding day.

The other important thing I try to do at the first fitting is to not overwhelm the bride. You do want to give her a complete estimate of the things the dress needs but you do not want to handle each item in detail. Do the basic bodice pinning and then simply list the other items the dress will need and prices and tell her these items will be taken care of once the bodice is fitting comfortably. This will also set a precedence for future fitting sessions for as the wedding date nears the bride may get more emotional about every little thing. If you have already taken control over how and when things will be done, it will be easier to defuse a difficult session by simply ending it with the reason that the work pinned has to be done before any more can be properly pinned.

Return to Topics

Getting Bridal Customers

If I were you, I'd make an information packet describing your services. It should include a page about your experience, maybe a short sample price list, and what type of work you are seeking (fit in shop and work at home, or at home only, seasonal, or year round, etc.) how you can be contacted for work. A list of references would also be nice. Send it to any and all Bridal stores in your area, department stores that have bridal departments, and especially if there are any bridal outlets near you. (These usually never offer in-house alterations)

Send it even to places you know have alteration departments. During Bridal season they may get so overbooked that they would appreciate having your name to give some of their customers.

Send it to other Bridal services businesses like Limousine rental, Tuxedo places, Florists.

You can even send it out to the ladies that announce their engagements in the paper!

Once you have a reputation, you will be writing me on how to turn away brides!

Return to Topics

The First Phone Call

"You never get a second chance to make a first impression."  How true this is when dealing with a bride.  Understand that she is already worried about everything from her floral arrangements to convincing her Mom-in-law-to-be that hot pink is not a good choice for her complexion. She could really use a trustworthy/ professional person caring for her precious gown, and you could really use that trust to make your job easier.

To insure that you get things off on the right footing, sometime during the first phone call, ask the wedding date and check your calendar for conflicts.  I keep a year-at-a-glance calendar for just this purpose. Explain that you are careful to make plenty of time to take care of a bridal customer's special needs.  It's my policy to keep brides at least two weeks apart.  This may be impossible to do for many of you, but I am only one person and I do have other obligations than just my brides. The point is that I do have a policy and it shows to the new bridal customer that I understand the importance of her occasion.  If I do have to schedule brides back to back I'm going to block out a 2 week buffer in front of them.

This means I may have to say "No" sometimes.  That's much better than overloading yourself. But I don't like to leave the bride with no alternatives. I do my best to keep up with sewing professionals in my area. I keep up with what kind of work they do and what services they offer. By giving a confident referral, you not only help her, but start a good first impression for the referee.

Your first phone call impression should also give her the sense that you are in control of all the things she might not have thought of yet.  It may help to make a list of points to discuss with a new bride and keep it by your phone.  One of these should be to ask her about her shoes and undergarments.  If she has already thought of these things praise her for her foresight.  If she does happen to ask you something you have not put on your list, discuss it with her briefly and tell her you will make a note to figure it out with her in detail when she sees you for her first appointment.  Then be sure to bring up the subject at the appointment.

Return to Topics

Who's Important?

Brides are not your normal customers.  Give the sweet little girl next door a ring and a date and she is all starry eyed because her dreams are coming true.  Until she walks into your alteration salon with the most important garment of her young life.  How quickly dreams can turn into nightmares for the both of you.

Luckily, there are a few easy things you can do to get off on the right footing with your new bridal customer.  I've been making these a habit and they have served me well.  Dealing with the "Princess for a Day" doesn't have to leave you tearing you hair out.  Something as simple as the right mind set can save you and her a lot of headaches.

I don't want to imply here that brides are the only important customers you have.  Certainly all your customers are individually important, but brides just need a little extra attention.  I'm sure you want your reputation to show that you treat every garment with care and do your very best job on even a simple hem.  But as far as personal attention goes, you need to realize that a bride will automatically take up more time for everything from fittings to talking on the phone.

Once you have the proper bridal care mind set, you can start to understand how to handle all the challenges that will inevitably face you.  Hopefully, you won't be facing everyone with every bride you see, but they will all crop up from time to time.  After awhile you won't be so surprised when they happen and will have gained the finesse to handle each with patience and grace.

Return to Topics

The Great Hem Debate

You would have to start off with the biggest question all bridal alterations people face! Well, let's jump right in.

Each dress is different and has to be judged on it's own problems. I always try to do the hem from the bottom if it is possible, even when doing it at the waist would be easier. The bottom method is the most accurate. And even though it takes time to remove the lace, you save time in all the readjusting that sometimes has to be done with the waist method. Also the bottom method is easier on the nerves of the bride. And anything that eases her fears is a good thing.

At the first fitting, I usually pin a tuck half way up the front from side seam to side seam to determine the amount to shorten for either method. This helps the bride to see just how the hem will look when done. Then have her walk around a bit, not looking at the hem. When a person looks down it makes the hem seem longer. To do the alteration I will take any lace off, repin it up the marked amount and refit before any material is cut. If needed the excess material can be folded & pinned up under the newly positioned lace.

At the second fitting, the bride walks about again to determine if the length needs to be adjusted. If she is comfortable with the length then cut and finish off as needed.

If the lace motifs or your judgment determine that the hem has to be lifted at the waist, fit as before to determine the amount. To do the job remove whatever is over the waist seam from back darts on one side around the front to the other side's darts. Open seam. Lift skirt the determined amount from side seam to side seam and taper back to original seam from the side seam to the back dart. Baste in place. Refit as before and adjust if needed. Secure seam, trim excess skirt fabric and replace decoration.

Now, there are exceptions to every rule and lots of details depending on the gown, but this should get you started. The most important thing to know is that this is always going to be a learning process. Even when you have done your 1,000th gown, you will still be learning because the designers will keep on doing things differently. You need to develop the ability to figure it out depending on the gown you're working on. When you take it apart, pay attention to the construction and then put it back when you are done making whatever adjustment the gown needs. In short you need to learn how to learn.

Return to Topics

Hem Length

This varies with the confidence of the bride to walk in the gown. Many young ladies have never worn such a garment before and could be in danger of tripping down the isle. I usually start pinning it at 1" and have the girl walk around in it (Taking care to not look down for this makes the dress longer). Have her carry a fake bouquet of flowers if it will help her get the feeling. Then shorten more until she feels comfortable.

I worked at a bridal store once that insisted on all the hems being done 2" from the floor! Now that IS too short. But 3/4" doesn't sound like a bad length to me. It is just one person's opinion though.

Just remember, it's just as important for your daughter to feel at ease in this dress as it is for it to "look" proper. If "she" doesn't "feel" beautiful, the "dress" won't "look" beautiful.

Return to Topics

Gown Storage

If you can store them in the dark either with bags or in a closet.

There are lots of views on the type of wrapping that is best. I've worked on many vintage gowns that were stored in various ways: Wrapped in white sheet, blue tissue, white tissue, and professionally sealed. They all seem to fair the same. Some of the best preserved were not kept in any special way at all. So I feel the key is darkness. Therefore, your muslin bag idea is great. You could buy a couple bolts of muslin when it goes on a half price sale and make up several bags. Put a pocket on the outside for identification papers and you'll have a very nice storing system.

I once bought a bolt of upholstery fabric and made a dozen zipper bags for when I go to Trade shows. It looks so impressive to walk in with a rack of identical bags. And they hold up better than plastic bags. On your bags I wouldn't bother with zippers unless you really want to. You won't be traveling with them so you can easily design them to lap over for the opening in the front. And when hanging they will provide the protection you need.

Here's another opinion:

Hi, I've been perusing your web site after ordering my DTD PDF, and was interested in the gown storage section.

You're dead right about light, especially sunlight. Exposure to the radiation erodes the fibers, in much the same way that exposure to sunlight damages skin cells. Unlike the body, a wedding dress cannot manufacture new cells and silk fibers, so the fabric degrades. Granted, the fibers of silk or more like hair fibers than skin cells. But we've all seen sun damaged hair. I think Pottery Barn is doing it's customers a huge disservice by selling silk dupioni drapes this season. They will disintegrate. But I digress.

In my experience, plastic is a major part of the problem with storing natural fibers like silk satin and charmeuse. Silk is a natural fiber and needs consistently dry, coolish (60-70 F is ideal) air for long term storage. Silk stored in plastic bags and boxes will still react to temperature change as the gasses in the bag expands and contract with the temperature: the silk fibers will expand and contract too, but never have fresh air circulating around them. Like an Egyptian tomb of depleted air. I learned this the first time the hard way: I stored a perfectly wearable, albeit delicate, sage green silk 20's party dress in a zippered plastic bag. When I took it out of storage about 5 years later, the silk literally shattered and disintegrated in my hands. Since then, I've learned from experts about silk storage and haven't had any more first hand disasters!

A note on garment bags: I make my own by purchasing 100% cotton, white twin-size flat sheets for a few dollars on sale at Target or Ross. (these are for client bags. For my own, I get cotton sheets at the thrift store). The edges are all nicely finished for me. All I have to do is fold one in half length wise, stitch up the long side and then along "top" of the bag, skipping two inches in the middle leaving a hanger opening. I leave the bottom open, but a zipper could be added. One can turn and press the seam, or not, depending on how necessary it is to have a "finished" bag.

Moths, are of course, equally nightmarish to silk. I use tulle to make little net bags for moth balls, tie a ribbon at the "neck", and hang it from the hanger, over the cotton sheet garment bag.

Finally, for all bias silk gowns, it's a *MUST* that they *NEVER* be stored long-term hanging at the shoulder, as you would hang any dress. Silk on bias, over time, hung on a hanger, will stretch so much that the dress which started off as a size 10 for a 5'6" woman will become a size 4 for a 6'5" woman. (It's not that women were so much taller and thinner in the 30's--poorly stored gowns have stretched!)

The way to avoid this is to start with plastic pants hangers, and very thickly pad the horizontal bar with terry cloth--dishtowels are great. Then drape the dress through all the of the hangers, so that there are roughly 10 vertical inches of dress draping between the hangers. Loosely secure the hanger necks together with a ribbon or some such, and then store the dress in a cotton garment bag.

I don't feel that these types of gown should be folded as the long silk fibers tend to become weak at creases over time, and it's inevitable that age will begin to show at the folds. The heavily padded hangers keeps these creases from ever forming.

Anyway, my two-cents on wedding gown storage. :-)

-Kim
--
www.SilkPoppy.com
Custom Reproduction Vintage Clothing
1920's, 30's, & 40's

Return to Topics

This site created and maintained by: Leanna Studios © Copyright 1994 by Leanna Studios. All Rights Reserved.