The PDF file

If I order the floppy disk, can I print out the instructions? It would probably be easier to follow written instructions than running back and forth to the computer. You have also stated that I can print out the instructions after I have sent you the money for them. Will any word software be able to recognize pdf files. I have Corel, but have not had occasion to try to print pdf files. I am very excited about the DTD. I have been trying to sew myself a new wardrobe, and getting very frustrated with dressing and undressing to try things on. Thanks for any information.

To view any pfd file you need the Adobe Reader program. It's free and you can get it at the Adobe site. I send a link for that when I fill every order. With the Reader program you can print any pfd file whether it's from a download or on a disk. I agree with you that printing things out makes it much easier to use. You can choose to use the file any way, but I like the print out. There's just something about having things on paper that you can hold that seems to make it easier.

Thank you for sending the file. I have a problem. I am unable to save the download. There is no "save" function listed anywhere in the download. Can you help?

Becca

When you click on the link I sent you the Adobe Reader should automatically load. When the file is finished downloading, the Reader should automatically open it so you can view it. At this time you can do all the things you can normally do with a windows program file - save, print, or just read through it.

To save click on the word "File" in the upper left hand corner of your browser's window. You will get a list. Click on the word "Save As..." You will get another window asking you where you want to save the file to. Select a location and click the "Save" button in the lower right hand corner.

If you use Netscape like I do, you can also hold down the Ctrl key on your keyboard while you press the "S" key. You will get the same Save window.

Hello I was wondering will the Duct Tape Double work with Men's Items like Shirts, pants, and Suit Jackets and Vests ? what about hemming pants? Dose the Book talk at all about this ?
Thanks for your time
Mike

No, the manual is of a female form only, and does not contain instructions on how to do fittings on it, only how to make it. The technique can certainly be use to make a male form using the same instructions.

I'm very interested in ordering your instructions. However, I do not have a color printer. Would the pictures be of any assistance printed on a laser printer? Would I be better off getting just the text version?
Trish

I think the pictures are a great asset to the instructions. I have printed them out in black and white to use as handout in speaking engagements and I think they look fine. You might like to go to the Threads web site to see pictures like the type in my instructions and maybe that will help you decide.

I've recently taken the Text only version off the Order form because no one has wanted it in several months.

I am interested in the instructions for the Duct Dress Form. I'm not too experienced with the computer, so my question may sound dumb: The snail Mail File on 3 1/2+ACI- floppy Disk , you will mail to me the floppy disk, and I will be able to insert it on the computer and view it with out worry about virus?

Your question isn't dumb at all. It's a good thing that you are being careful about computer viruses. You can get a virus from an e-mailing or a floppy disk. I won't send you one, but there are folks out there that would. Your best defense is to have a good Virus Protection program on your computer. There are many out there. I used to have PC-cillin but have switched to the Norton system. When you buy anything off the Internet you should scan it before using it. This includes downloaded files and floppies like what I send folks. But not everything will give you a virus just because it came from the Internet. It's only malicious people out there that will try to mess you up like that.

Is it hard to make one and does a person need to do 50-60 measurements or is it a no nonsense deal??

There are no measurements you have to take. Only those you want to take to check on the accuracy of your work. If you read the condensed version at: http://www.leanna.com/DuctTapeDouble/textA.html
You will have a better idea what it is all about. There is also a lot of information in the Tales section: http://www.leanna.com/DuctTapeDouble/Tales/tales.html
and Q&A section: http://www.leanna.com/DuctTapeDouble/DTDQA.html of my site. These should answer any other questions you have.

Do the instructions for the form down load and play over an imac? I have downloaded a couple of things that were only for windows and I could not play them. Do you have the instructions in book form?

You can only read the instructions with the Adobe Program which you can get for free from Adobe. There are many versions of Adobe. I'm sure one will work with your system. Go to: http://www.adobe.com/products/acrobat/readstep.html to see the selection.

I downloaded and printed out the full instructions with photos about a year ago.  Unfortunately I didn't end up printing out the "preparing to stuff" section.  I notice that you no longer have the option to view the photo instructions on your site.  Could you please e-mail me with the photos from that section?  I can't figure it out with the text only.

I'm sorry but the instructions are in one PDF file that I can't just send a piece of. It's not in separate pages like it used to be. I can only send the whole thing. I rewrote the instructions to be gotten this way because so many people were visiting the site that it was costing way more than I can afford. (The more people that visit a site the more the site owners are charged for the space.) So I recreated them in a form I could send through e-mail, and 15 web pages was simply way too big to be sending that way. When I re-edited the instructions they grew to 45 pages and I had to set it up to be a downloading file.

Though I can't let them go for free any more, I tried to make the instructions affordable to anyone by pricing as low as I thought reasonable for my work. I know that some folks that buy the instructions from me might pass them around to friends for nothing, but I'm not trying to make gobs of money - just to be able to pay for the site and keep the instructions available to so many who want them.

I'm working on other instructional files for teaching clothing alteration. Though there are text books available on this, I have yet to find one that really teaches what I have been doing successfully for many years. 

I think your method is a wonderful idea. I am a knitwear designer. Do you have this on video? I hope, if so, please let me know how much it costs. I saw your article in one of Threads back issues.

I guess you might be wondering what would a knitwear designer want with a dress form. Well sometimes I used the cut and sew techniques for knitting when time and money is a factor.

No, I don't have this on video - yet. It's just a PDF file for now. Hopefully, I may be able to do one soon. I'll put a notice on the site when I do.

Leah, one more thing, Do you know if Acrobat will copy this on to a disk? I don't want to lose it should my computer decide to crash someday. Thanks again Debi

Yes it does.
Put the floppy disk you want to copy to in the drive slot. Look at the top left hand corner of the Acrobat screen. Click on the word "File". On the list you will get, click on the words "Save As". Another window screen will pop up. At the top of this window box is a place to select where your floppy drive is (This is usually drive A). You have to know the letter of your drive and put it here. There is an arrow to the right of the box that will give you a list of your drives. If you don't know, click on this arrow to select the drive that is labeled "3 1/2 floppy". Click on the button with the word Save on it. The file will save to your floppy.

Remember to remove the floppy from the drive before you turn off your computer or you will have problems the next time you want to turn it on.

Are there any instructions for making a full life size (including legs/pants) all in one form?

My Instructions are for a basic torso form, from neck to hip area.

There are stories of folks trying this in the Tales section of my site. Go to:
http://www.leanna.com/DuctTapeDouble/Tales/tales.html

It's rather easy to do without explicit instructions. Just continue wrapping the whole body as instructed for the torso and cut it off up one leg and continuing up the center back.

Or, I would recommend trying to do 2 wrappings. The first of the upper body that would run a little past the waist and the second that starts a little above the waist and runs down the legs. This way you can combine the two at the waist and you don't have to put the model through the ordeal a whole body wrap would be.

Some folks have written that in the wrapping process they have gotten tired of standing for so long, to some people reporting feeling dizzy. I would not recommend endangering yourself in any way. Be careful whatever method you choose to try!!!!!

Leanna,
Thank you for sending the DTD instructions so promptly, I am looking forward to making my double soon. I do have one question regarding the quality of the figures. I noticed that the DTD figures are not as sharp as the figures in the Sports Hem instructions. Is this because the DTD instructions/figures are on disk and the Sports Hem instructions were sent via e-mail? If so you may want to add a note to your web page about this because I would have opted to get the instructions via e-mail if I would have know this.

Thanks, Pam

Yes the pictures themselves are different. When I wrote the instructions for the DTD the digital technology was not as good as it is today, and my purpose was to have it on the website therefore I processed the pictures with a lower resolution so they would come up on the website pages fast. Having 94 pictures in a high resolution could have one waiting half a day for the pages to load in your browser!

When I switched them to the PDF file format I did what I could with the technology of that time, to make the pictures as nice a possible. They still show up clearly on a computer monitor, but when printed out they are a little picsilated. Depending on the quality of the printer used, they print out with varying degrees of clarity as any file does. My new printer (hp1100) does a much better job than my old hp694 did at printing out the file. That's one of the big reasons I wasn't willing to sell printed copies of the instructions until now. With my new printer, the pictures are much crisper. Though still picsilated, they show the process clearly and I am much more pleased with the detail they portray.

The pictures in the download file and the floppy disk file are the same. The reason the pictures in the Sport Hem lesson look clearer is that I was able to purchase a nicer camera that takes pictures at a much higher resolution than was possible a few years ago when I made the Duct Tape Instructions. In writing the Alteration lessons, I felt it important to have a much higher clarity in the pictures for the detail needed in showing some of the processes requires that I be able to show stitch placements that are often difficult to see in real life, let alone a picture.

I have recently found a program that will enable me to clear up the picture and make them almost as high a resolution as I can make with my camera now. I've been able to revise the instructions into a nice second edition with more ideas for troublesome areas and much cleaner pictures.

Hello , I just saw your instructions which will come very handy when I do a dressform later in the year saving me a bit of money in the long run. Just emailing about your site to say BIG THANKS for the info and no offense but I think the reason for people "flaming" about the cost for the instructions is because they were free in the first time. It would be like the supermarket all of the sudden charging for the use of their shopping baskets.

Oh well , sod them .. just don't rant on your site because it might cost you some customers. Anyway the major reason was to say thank your for your information. Kindest regard,alicia and co

Ya, I do understand that to many it's a disappointment, but there is never an excuse for the rude and overly crude letters I get. Hay, I love to find free things on the Internet too. And speaking one's opinions is something I like to encourage folks to do, but "flames" are never appropriate. For example I would never get upset over a letter like yours. You are stating your ideas clearly and nicely. I appreciate that! Besides, there haven't been many flaming e-mails so I've taken most of the objectionable letters off the site.

Some folks take me the wrong way and I can understand why. I speak my mind without all the politically correct garbage language that I find misleading. I tend to sound opinionated at times, but folks write asking for my opinion, so I give it to them as straight as I can. If after thinking the situation over they choose to go against my ideas, than I think that's great too. I have made it possible for them to consider all the angles and make their own choice. That's so much more important than my little opinion anyway. Don't you think?

Anyway, thanks for stopping by the site and I'm glad you found some useful stuff there!

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Order/Download Problems

I had a little bit of difficulty getting access to the link to obtain the PDF files at first, but everything turned out fine eventually. The problem was that since most programs on Macs are "back" compatible, I just went ahead and used my current version of Adobe Acrobat 5.0 (which was bundled with my Mac 8.6 OS software) to try to access your page. Whoops.

Here's what the problem is--it's an incompatibility with the Mac system software and Acrobat 5.0 URL access.

The latest version of Acrobat that is bundled with Mac systems 8.6 and above is 5.0 Acrobat. But Acrobat 5.0 is not URL-access compatible with the Mac 8.6 and above systems. I have 5.0 downloaded and on my machine (and it is in working order) and is what I usually use. The 4.0 versions were designed for pre-8.6 Mac OS (and I didn't even have a copy). I looked up the troubleshooting files at the Adobe Acrobat web site after I experienced trouble, and they state that Acrobat 5 doesn't install URL access in Mac OS 8.6 and above. They said that they had disabled some Internet features because of system limitations. I installed 4.0 Acrobat from the Adobe web site (which you thoughtfully included in your e-mail message), and when I tried your URL again, evidently Acrobat 4.0 provided a bridge to open your PDF duct tape double. As near as I can figure, Adobe 5.0 runs, but it uses the 4.0 URL access, since it popped up a message asking if I wanted to fix the problem so that I could access the URL (it only did this after I downloaded the 4.0 software). I'm not a computer whiz, so I don't know the technical whys. I was able to save your PDF file to my hard drive at that point without a problem. It seems to be opening and functioning okay now that it's on my hard drive. I've opened and closed it a couple of times and run through the pages, and it seems to be doing what it should.

Only a small percentage of people are running on Mac platforms, but for anyone who is running on Mac OS 8.6 and above (10.1 just came out) and using Adobe 5.0 without the earlier 4.0 version on their systems, this could cause a brief problem until they downloaded the earlier Acrobat 4.0 version. I just wanted to let you know about this in case it happened with somebody else. I suspect that eventually Mac or Adobe will put out a proper patch for 8.6 and later operating systems so that later versions of Acrobat will have URL access.

All this above sounds garbled and windy! I guess if you wanted to put a note in a troubleshooting section on your downloading instructions, it could just state that "If you are running Mac OS 8.6 or above and Adobe Acrobat 5.0, you'll need to download Acrobat 4 for the Mac in order to open the PDF file from the URL address provided in the e-mail." Or, maybe your other customers haven't been dumb enough to try it with 5.0 first, and all of this is unnecessary! Leave it to me!

Of course, if I'd just downloaded 4.0 to begin with, none of it would have happened! Duh. Some of us Mac people!

Your instructions look absolutely wonderful and are very clear. I'll be going over them in more detail, but I am so glad to be able to get them.

Thank you so much.
Rae

Wow, Rae, no, I was not aware that there was a problem with Macs and the version 5. Thanks for the info!

I have enjoyed your website. I have the adobe and acrobat 5.0 but I am computer illiterate and I am not understanding how to download. Can you assist me? I am a fashion design student and I need to save anywhere I can if you know what mean. Dress forms can be expensive, also, I like to sew for plus size. I will appreciate the help. Thank you in advance.

The instructions for ordering are at:
http://www.leanna.com/Ordering/

The downloading instructions are sent after you order. You will get an e-mail with a link in it. Basically, all you do is click on the link and your computer does the rest.

If I order the directions to download the dress form instructions and in the middle of downloading them my ISP server cuts me off can I go back and get the rest of the download or if it don't download can I retry as I live way out in the country and only have one ISP server and some times if our phone lines are slow they shut me down.

My set-up isn't like most you-get-one-shot-at-it deals. I set up a download for just you with your own link. It stays active for at least 48 hours (depending on when I get to cleaning house it could be there for 4 days or so) So you should have enough time to get the file, even if it takes a few tries. I understand how ISP's are sometimes.

If you find that you need more time than 48 hours, all you have to do is let me know and I can keep your link active for as long as you need. Just please tell me as soon as you have the file all saved on your computer so I can use the space for the next person who wants to order.

I need your address to send my order but I can't find it anywhere on your site.

You are right, my address is not anywhere on the site. Considering the subject matter on my site (wrapping naked bodies in duct tape) I think you can understand why I do not put it there. I get lots of strange e-mails from strange people already, I don't want one showing up on my doorstep. So I only send out the address to those who place an order.

To order the file go to:
http://www.leanna.com/Ordering/

Thanks for understanding :)

I am interested in the instructions for the body double. Can you please tell me if you send the instructions to Canada? and how much for Canadian orders?

It doesn't matter where you are in the world. I have customers all over, as far away as New Zealand. I can only do US funds though, but if you pay using a Canadian credit card your bank will do the money exchange for you. I'm sorry but I have no idea what the exchange rate is lately.

My question is will you send the disk to me in Canada if I snail mail you $10.00 plus a disk?

I have the disks already made up. I can send one to you but I need payment in US funds, not Canadian money. A credit card would do the conversion for you so most people pay this way. It's easier.

I want to inquire about ordering the instructions for the Duct Tape Dress Form. Is there any problem with my being in Ireland??

No, it does not matter where you are. That's the beauty of the Internet.

I must say I am intrigued by your plans and interested in getting a copy of the detailed directions. This may seem funny, but I just wanted to check that there was actually someone paying attention to orders that come form the web. Your site doesn't seem to have been updated recently, so this is a sort of net "ping" to be sure everything is cool. Sincerely, Denise

I check my e-mail at least twice a day, often more. I can't check it hourly nor do I have daily updates to make to my website. But I am here!

I'm interested in ordering the instructions, but wanted to make sure everything is "up and running" there first. Can you drop me a reply to indicate that all is working on your end? I'm requesting this because occasionally I've ordered something from a website, only to find that that site wasn't fully operational or was out of service. Thanks so much. I look forward to ordering from you and cannot wait to make my own double! Rosie

That's really strange that a company would put up a site to sell stuff and make money then not process orders properly. But odd things happen every day. I am here and I try my best to process orders within 24 hours, most a whole lot faster. I was away this past weekend and had a notice up but I am here now. I will be checking the orders once more tonight and then once in the morning tomorrow.

Sorry to bug you again but would it be OK to pay via credit card by sending part of the number from one e-mail address and the rest of the number from another e-mail address?

I have gotten orders that way from folks who weren't as nice as you are to ask - so sure! I'll know they go together by your name. Just fill out the order form (as you mentioned) twice with half the number on one and the other half on the other. Please do remember to put the expiration date on one of them.

I will send the # Visa - expiration date 12/01 in a different e-mail.
The subject will be Friends Phone #.
I hope this is safe.

Yes, it really is. Most folks don't understand the real problem with credit cards and the Internet is not in sending your number over the Net, but companies who keep your number in their computer system after they receive it. It's not efficient to try to steel numbers as they are being transmitted. The thief may get a few numbers here and there, more if it hits a big company. They don't even try to waste their time on tiny companies like me. But to give a computer a virus that gives you access to it's store of client's numbers is more likely to gain thieves a jackpot. I have the best protection against this that a PC can have, a great Antivirus program and a hardware firewall.

But as an added precaution, after I have processed an order the number gets wiped from my system. So, you don't need to worry.

But I don't see any note saying it is a secure site. Will you please let me know?

If a site is not labeled secure, than it is not. When you enter this secure section of a site to order things you will get a little box that tells you that you are entering the secure section. If you don't get this box on any site, you can be sure it is not secured. Mine is not. I thought I had put something about that on the ordering instructions but I will have to do that for better clarity.

The PayPal option is a secure type transfer that you can feel very save using. I pay a higher fee for this, but it's not so bad as paying the extra for securing my whole site. Lot's of my customers like this option because they are familiar with it from other sites.

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Supplies

I am trying to find the foam to do a foam dress form, but haven't found it yet. I know it's messy and expensive, but I can't see duct tape holding up under repeated pinnings and boning fittings. I do Mediaeval garb, which often requires stays, etc. I need something firmer. I have the original Threads article at home, but need a source of pourable foam rubber.

Sorry, but I have no sources for rubber foam. A few folks have given me ideas about that expandable foam stuff that's solid you get at hardware stores, but no rubber type foam. The information I do have is here: http://www.leanna.com/DuctTapeDouble/DTDQA.html#Stuffing

I already have the instruction for the "duct tape double" and know of a variation done in old fashion mailing tape (that dries like paper mache and lets you stick pins in your double), the kind you have to wet then apply to boxes. However I can't seen to find any in the stores. Do you know of anyone who has done this and found a supplier?

I think your best bet is Staples, or Office Max.

____________________________

Hello there. I saw a FAQ Question on your site that asks where a person can find gummed paper tape, and I wanted to pass along the tip that I just purchased a CASE to split up between myself and my group of crafting girlies for 17.00 on auction (that was 15 rolls, 375 feet per roll.) shipping added 19.00 (via fed-ex as it is a 34# case) but still when you consider the cost of this tape at the store is about 3.00 a roll for 1/10th the tape per roll (At office depot) that drives the cost of a paper-tape double through the roof! The name of the online ebay store where I got the tape was Coleman Wholesale Supplies. I am not affiliated with them, don’t even know them beyond doing one transaction with them (which has been great) But I thought I might pass this tidbit along to you to post on your site as a tip to all the other dressmaking double makers out there. (I just looked and it looks like he has more tape, none on auction but the Buy it Now sale price is 23.95, still an amazing bargain!)

Thank you for the wonderful information in kind! I hope this can help someone else into a double.
Monica

____________________________

What is the estimated amount (rolls) of duct tape required for a ~size 20 mature body? Thanks, Patri

I would have 4 rolls handy, but you might not use all of it. Having extra sure does beat running out to the store half taped to get more. Some of the stories in the Tales section of my site give how much tape was used. You might be able to get a better idea from these.

Didn't think it would be this hard to get a tube, since there are 3 fabric stores that carry decorator fabrics, but I haven't been able to get one yet. Perhaps I could purchase a shipping tube from "The Mail Box" or "Post Haste."

This might be a good idea if it is thick enough.

I have not yet made a duct tape double.  I went to the store and have found three different weights of duct tape.  Does the weight (thickness) of the tape make a difference?  Is lighter or heavier easier to work with?  Thanks.  I hope this works.  I am at the end of my rope in terms of fitting.  I know very few people who sew or who could help with fitting.  Keep working on the bottom half of the body idea.  Any help in making a pants double would be greatly appreciated.   Rose

 Wow, three ? You've got on well stocked store there. No, the weight doesn't really matter, just the three layers in the opposing directions creates the strength to hold the shape. I've only used one weight. (My store only carries one) So I guess I would try the medium one if I had a choice.

Hi Leanna,

I am a sewer from South Africa and in my sewing group we have for a long time been looking for instructions like these. I have asked my husband what he understands by "duct tape" and he isn't sure what it is, even though he is something of a handyman. So, before I send for the instructions, could you tell me what the tape actually is so I can be sure I can get it here? And secondly, what is "snailmail" please? Thanks and looking forward to hearing from you, Sandra

In your case I have not been able to find out what Duct Tape is called in South Africa. I'm still trying to find out what they call it in Australia because someone wrote asking that several months ago. Duct Tape here in the US, is a fabric based tape with a Polyethylene finish on it. It comes in large rolls 2 inches wide. It was developed for use by plumbers to temporally patch duct work, thus the name "duct tape". The 3M company sells it on the web at www.ducttape.com

Here's a link to a page on The Duct Tape Guy's site:
http://www.octanecreative.com/ducttape/duckvsduct.html

It has several other names for Duct Tape. Perhaps there's one you recognize.

Snail Mail is an Internet term referring to regular parcel post. The way most non-Internet users send letters and packages. I have the Instructional file on floppy disks that have to be sent this way. Most of my customers prefer the speed of the download. Sending a snail mail to South Africa I think would take a good long time from where I am in the US, and cost a considerable amount in postage fees. I have not been offering this service to those outside the US because of this expense.

Hope this answers your questions!

_________________________________

I'm form Australia and just had a peek at your site, pretty cool ideas. Anyway, most people in Australia call 'duct tape' either 'electrical tape, 'duct tape', or 'gaffa tape'. Hope this helps.

Carrie
________________________________

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Preparing the T shirt

Just thought I would add my two bits; although I didn't read the whole section of taping tales, I didn't see this in there. I noticed that a lot of people are having trouble with T-shirts bunching up and adding extra inches to their form (nobody wants to have extra inches added!). A simple way to get around this is to use a plastic bag instead of a T-shirt. A dry-cleaner's cover bag or garbage bag works fine. Just cut holes for the head and arms and off you go! If you want to "tailor" it a little before starting, just cut out a couple of sections and tape together (like darts). Wear the bag over a form fitting camisole/halter top or bra. These will run the risk of getting cut if the person doing the cutting isn't careful, so it is best to make sure they are not your favorite clothes, or make sure that you are extra careful.

One warning however! Since plastic doesn't breathe, and you will be adding layers of duct tape on top, you have to make sure that the process doesn't take too long and is not in an overly warm room where the unfortunate victim will perspire themselves 2 pounds lighter! (May sound good, but really isn't fun)

I had one of these made as a pattern base instead of a form, and went straight from the pattern to cutting out a garment that fit perfectly!

Hope this is helpful!
Lisa

Thanks Lisa for the idea.

Yes, I have also used the Duct Tape as a pattern drafting tool and hope to have instructions for this method available soon.

What do you think about using an old turtleneck instead of a T-shirt?  I've been reading the "tales" and many have commented on how a regular "T" bunches in the back--a turtle is more form fitting and would eliminate adding a sleeve to the neck of a "T".  Just an idea I thought I would throw out there---think I'm gonna try it.

This is a great idea. Hope it works for you.
Return to the table of contents.

Wrapping

I have another question - we tried the technique last night but had a real problem with the T-shirt bunching around the waist. We wound up with the waist being about 3" too big! I know we can dart and tuck it and all, but how can we avoid the bunching problem?

Ya, this is a pain, but there's not much I can say except to be real careful while you wrap to not push the shirt up. If you have an extra person to hold down the shirt, that's great, but most people are lucky to get just one friend to help wrap. I also think you might be wrapping a little too tight through the hip area. This will push the shirt up toward the waist because it's smaller than the hips. Try wrapping tight at the waist and then slack off a little going down through the hip area.

Do you think wrapping over pantyhose to make a leg form will result in an overly "smooshed" form?

I think I'd try over sized tights so they aren't so tight. I bought some at KMart once that I wanted to use as tights but they were too big and bagged all over. I think that would work well.

When making the DTD I am wondering if I should wear my usual bra underneath, as I am very small and always wear a fully padded A cup bra.  I am afraid if I don't wear a bra (like I saw recommended), the DTD will be flat. Suggestions?

For you I think it would be a good idea to wear the bra. I am also small and I was glad I did wear mine when I made my first double of myself.

I have a friend who has made 3 doubles with paper tape because of body changes. She loves them. I've been contemplating the use of 'painter's tape'. It's just like masking tape but is moveable till pressed firmly. It's slightly flexible to make covering curvy areas easier & was manufactured not to leave any residue on surfaces. It'll be easier to cut through, lighter & thinner, so more layers won't add much to the overall size. Also, it is significantly easier to work with. You don't have to be Hercules to pull it apart should 2 gummed sides get stuck together & is easier to smooth out ripples. When finished, a spray or brush-on fixative could be applied so it won't peel with time.

I doubt masking tape would be strong enough to hold the shape when stuffed. I had to stuff mine very well to get it to stand upright. I've had it 6 years now and haven't had sagging or shape distortions except the boobs have lost a little firmness, but I was able to fix this by adding a little Fiberfil from the neck when I added the head. I'm going to add instructions on using a raglan shoulder pad in each breast before stuffing.

When you tape, do you wrap around and around in a continuous strip, or do you cut different sized lengths?  Any suggestions you might have would be appreciated.  Thanks :)

I started out doing cut strips, but have switched to continuous lengths because it's much more secure when stuffed. You need to stuff firmly, but if you stuff too much cut strips can give a little and make the form larger than you are.

The bust area is the most difficult to tape for sure, and often comes out squished. It's not a hopeless situation though. When taping go carefully around the bust and do not tape tightly at all. If it still comes out smushed, you can make cuts in the area that needs altering, add stuffing or a set of raglan shoulder pads to enlarge as needed and retape over the added stuffing.

Is there any particular reason why they always instruct you to start at the bottom? What if I have to go to the rest room, or get claustrophobic?

I always start from the top. It takes me about one to two hours to wrap someone. Your idea of leaving the bottom for last is perfectly fine. It's the easiest part to do too, You could probable do the bottom in less than 20 minutes.

The claustrophobic and bladder difficulty points are both well given. But this process is very accommodating to changes for you personal needs. Like I say, this is an old art and not patented. You can do it anyway that suites your needs.

How long an estimate should we allow for doing from start to finish the double?

It takes me 2 to 3 hours to wrap and at least 2 to 3 hours to stuff, sometimes 4.

I am very large busted, with my breasts being very close together.  I am afraid the the cross your heart thing would a) make my breasts stick out 6 inches on either side of me and/or b) compress my breasts so that the form would not be accurate.  When wearing a bra, which I must, there is very little indentation between my breasts in the bra area.  Any suggestions for taping this kind of bust?  I know that I am not alone in my fitting problem.

I have been wanting to try some ideas on someone with your figure, but haven't had a body like that to do as of yet.  My Mom's figure was close but she did just fine with the regular method.

So here are two untried ideas I've thought a lot about but am not sure which is best. They both may have merit depending on your shape. If you decide to try one, please tell me how it worked out for you.

1. Do tape the cross in-between the breasts to the breast bone taking care not to misalign them. Place a piece or two of tape along the sides of each breast (after the crossing tapes) that starts at the first setting tape up the side and across the neck to the opposite shoulder and then down the back to the setting tape. This should keep them from spreading out to the sides unnaturally.

2. Don't tape in-between the breasts until about half way out from the breast bone. Then follow the natural curve to the nipple area with slashes and darting.

Dear Ms Leanna, I purchased the instructions awhile back. I was hoping to lose some weight before I attempted making the DTD. Well, I didn't lose the weight. My daughter and I attempted making it on me just the other day. I am a Pear person, lots of hip. My hips are a good 12" larger than my waist. Has anyone come up with a good way to keep the tape from bunching up at the waist. Would starting below the hips help alleviate this problem? Thanks for any help you can give me.

Deborah

This happens to many people with ample hips. You are wrapping too tightly and the tape is bunching because it is seeking the smaller area nearer your waist. Many folks find it easier to do as you suggest and wrap starting below the hips, in the thigh area where you are slimmer and wrapping up through the wider area toward the slimmer waist. You can also try doing the vertical wrapping layer first, then wrapping horizontal.

The results:

I want to thank you for your advice on the DTD. A while back I emailed you with a problem. The duct tape was bunching up badly around my waist.

My niece came to visit a few weeks ago and did my taping. We took your advice. We did the top just like the instructions to the waist. In the back which was where it bunched up the most (I am apparently very sway back) we did the vertical strips. She did short horizontal strips in the front. Then she did the second wrapping from the bottom up. When she came to the waist, she did a lot of clipping (like you would do for clipping an armhole in a garment) so it would spread out and not bunch.

I have stuffed her this weekend. Boy!! was that an eye opening experience. Now I know why I couldn't alter my clothes to fit me. I knew I had put on weight, but I didn't really comprehend it until I saw myself in 3D. I see me how others see me. My doctor had already put me on an exercise program. This is even a better incentive to keep on it.

For my stand I used what I thought was pvc pipe. I later found out it is a sewer pipe. I wondered why it was black inside the pipe. I cut a 2' x 2' , 1/2in piece of plywood into a circle and centered what I assume to be a flange in the center. To be sure it doesn't wobble I will probably seal it with silicone or drill a hole in the in the side and put a screw in it. Now I am armed with a body double of myself and the book "Fit for Real People". I am looking forward to making some new clothes now.

Thank you so very much,
Deborah

Hi Leanna -

I got the instructions easily. Thank you! I have a couple questions -

1) when doing the initial crossover taping between the breasts, does the tape come down in the back to make an "X" also or does it come straight down?

2) when taping vertically, am I supposed to use one big piece of tape to go from back to front, and if so, how do I shape the tape around the tight curves by the neck and shoulders? I'm assuming that the sides just come down from the armpit.

Thanks! Scott

Great ! It bothers me when folks have a hard time getting the file. I know it's large and some computers have trouble with it, but once the problems are overcome it's usually easy to figure out.

Yes, the turtle neck should work nicely. I don't suggest it because it does get cut up and many folks would rather use an old T-shirt.

And yes, just ignore the bust details, unless you are the type of guy who has been body building. Then you may want to capture the muscle definition you so carefully worked to create. Or if you're into cross dressing you will want to do your wrapping with your regular undergarment that change your shape and then wrap as directed in the bust area.

There are lots of tips and detail in the instruction on how and where to wrap, but you also have to gauge that to your body's needs. The whole idea is to get a double of "you" what ever that may be.

I haven't been doing whole arms because that's just something that's better fitted on the real body. Though the Double is a great tool, it can't replace a body totally. You still need to try the garment on for the best fine tuning of the finishing alterations. That includes things like sleeve length because you need to consider the movement of the arm, which the Double can't do.
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Marking

I just downloaded your instructions and I now have a couple of questions re marking. I get the jist of plumblines but where do you start from?
I would like to mark cf, cb, sides, shoulder pivot and especialy princess lines, I presume the cb is from the nobby bone at back neck, is the cf from v under chin? sides and princess I have no Idea where to start. Hoping you can help.

Merilyn

You are correct about the cf and cb. Princess seams are where ever you want to put them, but they need to go within 1" oc the nipple point. Sides plumblines start in the middle of your arm pit.

Yes, you are right. I have noticed a tendency for people to "straighten up" when this marking is being done. I'm not sure why. Maybe it's because they are tired of standing and try to keep straight. Or maybe it's instinctual, like when your grandma pinned a hem while your mom was in the dress fidgeting. She would always say, "Stand up straight now." That's exactly what you do not want to do for this situation because it would through off all the hard work you did recreating yourself in every detail, including posture.

I was under the impression that some lines were marked while the form was still on, but then that would be before the 3rd layer of tape.

Yes, you are correct. While you are wrapping the third layer you have to carefully redraw the lines.

Also, with marking of the waist, am I marking my "natural waist" (where I put my hands, as when I'm measuring)?

That depends on what you want marked. I would do the natural waistline, but if you find need to have other markings on your form, you should do the ones that will be helpful to the way you want to use the form.

I don't have a plumb line, so I'm trying to figure out how important this step is and the consequences of not doing so.

You don't need an official plumb line bought at a store. Making one and how to mark is explained in the instructions. The pictures show how to hold it for marking. If you want to skip this step it's totally up to you if you think these markings will not be of use to you.

I like using a plumbline because it lets me make a form that is not only an accurate depiction of the figure but captures the posture of the person as well.

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Stuffing

Thank you very much for this. I have a friend coming over this weekend to "tape me up, Scotty!" This is going to transform my sewing. I'm very excited. I have a question... does the wooden hanger have to be a big, shaped one like in the photo? Can it be just a regular old wooden hanger? If not... where can I buy one of those big hangers?

The shape of the hanger doesn't matter much. It's for extra support. If the one you have fits your shoulder area than use it. If you want one like I used you can buy them at most department stores like K Mart, Target, Wal Mart, etc.

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I have made my body double. The part that is wrong seems to be in the hanger slope. I should have push the hanger farther into the model. You may wish to make that more clear as it is a very important focal point of any pattern. I plan to cut and reposition this hanger farther down into the model. I hope it works it was a lot of work to get to this point. I will say that the body is really cool. Just the arm hole area and shoulders are currently a problem. Let me know if you have encountered this problem and how it was addressed.

You are the first person to report trouble with the hanger placement. I'm not sure I understand what you mean by "further into the model". Do you mean that the hanger distorting the shoulder curve? Perhaps your shoulder slope is not the same angle as your hanger. I can see how a hanger that is longer than your shoulders are could make the shoulder area distort too.

The hanger is meant to be a reinforcement, not really defining the shoulder line itself. Do you have any exact wording suggestions that would make this clearer?

Yes, I would say that the slope of the hanger interferes with my own shoulder shape and slope. My shoulders are rather straight and the hanger slopes up too soon. (About midway across my shoulder) The shoulder and arm area have given me trouble. I have cut and realigned and lessened the arm pit area already.. I want to cut and lower the hanger into the body of my dress form to make the shape better conform to my shoulders. As it is now, my "neck" starts half way across the shoulder area. I hope I've better explained the problem.

Do you think I will loose the too much strength, shape or overall integrity of the dress form if I start cutting across the shoulder or do you think across the upper back would be a safer choice? I am using a sleeveless shirt that fits
very nicely through the shoulders and back to help guide me through the problems. On the form, the shirt pulls up at the back armpit area. I am having a great time with the whole process and hope you can assist!

The hanger I used in mine that first one I did just happened to be a good slope to match my shoulder. I have seen many hanger that would not have been good for me since then, so I can see how you would have a real headache trying to use a hanger that didn't fit right. I would either try to find a more compatible hanger, or pack more stuffing material on the top side of the hanger to support your shoulder's particular slope.

I do feel that using a hanger is necessary to the stability of the form in the long run though. The combination of the hanger and pole are just as essential to the form as our spine and shoulder bones are for us.

I would not recommend cutting the back or shoulder area. It is such a critical area for the rest of the form's strength. I'd recommend working through the neck and arm openings.

Hi, I made "me" on Saturday. Very comical, especially when I had to go potty. It took my sister and I 3 hours. I do have one question in particular. When cutting off - why cut on those diagonal lines? It was much easier to re-seal on the bottom, where it was cut straight up. I look forward to hearing from you.

Thank you, Peggy

It is easier to seal, but the seal will last much longer if it has stability. Cutting the diagonals gives the back more stability when the last layer is taped. I started out cutting the back straight, but when my first Double started busting out at that weak straightly cut back first I started cutting the diagonals. The diagonal give the tape more places to stick to, making a more secure closing.

I was wondering if you thought a partial DTD (say, from just below the bust to just below the hip/through the crotch) would work. My concerns are how I would keep the stuffing from coming out the top and bottom (leg) openings. Have you ever done a DTD like this, or do you have any advice that might be helpful?

I think I would do this kind of like the hip part of the form, placing cardboard over the openings and taping really well. Then taping a hanger to the top.

Why do you recommend shoulder pads to fill in the bust area instead of bra cups like used in swim suits? Thanks, Jean

Real simple answer - I didn't think of it. I used the shoulder pads because I thought the foam would help the breast to hold up better. On my form the breasts are rather smushed from the years of use I've inflicted on it. (And from me knocking it over, landing on it's chest too many times)

I like your idea to use bra cups, but I think I would also put the shoulder pads inside the cups for the added insurance.

You really can't stuff lighter. The Christmas tree stand idea should work well for you. Just think how heavy a tree is. I saw some stands at Franks last season that looked like they could hold up a very hefty tree.

I've been having a lot of fun making a double but I have one question.  How can you get the width and depth of the double to remain accurate to your own?

It's not easy, but all you have to do is stuff accurately. Keep checking the width and depth measurements. Where it's too wide, take some stuffing out of the sides and put it in the front or back. Where it's too deep, take some out and put it in the sides. Just keep stuffing firmly and it will work.

Could you use that "expandable foam" stuff to fill in the inside of the form? I think it's called aerosol polyurethane expanding foam hole filler, (one brand is called Touch n' Foam) available in home/hardware centers and from building supply sources. I have seen this product used for quite a few craft projects. You would have to seal off all but one hole, then spray in. I believe the duct tape would be strong enough to keep shape when this stuff expands.

I have seen people use paper to make a form, such as a topiary shape and spray it in. You could then slice off excess that comes out of hole through expansion. This would create a firm, but pin able surface and you wouldn't have to worry about settling of batting.

Maybe you could cut/position the padded foam board so that it fits against the parallel-to-floor line and tape it, then spray foam through the neckline opening instead of the reverse, or if that isn't feasible, leave a hole in center back, spray foam down to fill bottom, measure to be sure bottom is parallel when foam is set, then spray through hole in back topward to fill out shoulders/neck, bust, etc., then spray the rest of the middle.

This sounds like a great plan. I'll try it with the next one I do.

For this one I used mostly dryer lint. I collected the lint from the catcher in my dryer for almost a year before I sat down to stuff the form we had made from the meeting. I had to buy 6 more bags of fiberfill to finish though. I am rather thin (130 lb.. When I did this form), but it takes a lot to stuff firmly.

I thought about that spray foam, but am glad I used the fiberfill. I can pin into it so nicely I wonder if the foam would do as well. I've read some posts on the net that you can not pin into the foam though. And I doubt I would have had the control over the posture of the form using foam. It did take me half a day to stuff as it was.

IMPORTANT NOTE: Some kind soul has written me to inform us that stuffing the form with dryer lint could be hazardous. It seems that dryer lint has been known to be combustible. Which means that under the right conditions, like being contained under a lot of pressure, it could spontaneously combust.

A response to the Dryer Lint Question:

 Dryer lint is just as explosive, and for the same reasons, as flour.  The rate of combustion of a carbohydrate such as cellulose is proportional to the amount of oxygen that it is in contact with, which in turn is proportional to the surface area.  By the square-cubed law, the smaller that something is the greater the surface area in proportion to the volume (mass).

In other words:

 When you have a combustible material that is in a very fine powder, evenly disbursed in the air, a high percentage of it is in contact with oxygen at any given time, and it will burn very fast (explode).

This is why granaries will occasionally explode.  So, unless you are mixing your dryer lint with an oxidant like Potassium Nitrate (saltpeter, used in making gunpowder), having it tightly compressed is about the safest way to keep it.  I wouldn't worry about your body double spontaneously exploding any more than I would worry about a  5 pound sack of flour in your kitchen exploding.

    Larry

Dryer Lint Addendum:

I have had my dryer lint stuffed Double for about 8 years now and no sign of it trying to explode yet. But I'll keep you posted :)

I have heard of people stuffing with newspaper, can this be used as well?

I think you could but the news paper might weaken after awhile and not be so firm as the fiberfill.

I have a regular dress form but it does not BULGE in the spots that I bulge in so was wondering if I could combine the duct tape and my form?

I'm not sure just how to do this, but I'm sure it could be done. If anyone has any ideas on this subject, please let me know.

Could I use this duct tape double method to place my oh-so-much-larger figure over my much too small dress form? Seems I could drape it off the shoulders, then add the necessary stuffing. Sound plausible?

This situation sounds doable, and a big savings in stuffing cost. It will still be difficult to do in making sure everything comes out accurate. But you may even come out with a more stable form. Just use your form like it was the tube and take your time. Keep measuring the form as you stuff. It will take small amounts of fiberfill placed carefully, but it should work.

I read that someone used plastic grocery bags to stuff their DTD.  Have you heard of this?

What a great idea. I must have enough bags for 3 forms right now! I do think I'll try this on the next one.

Can't say anyone has tried this but I think it would work well. You may want to use some polyfil also to keep that nice texture. Please let me know if you do yours this way.

I'm not sure how to place the shoulder pads in the bust area because they are shaped differently than a regular bra.

It's hard to describe. But think of the bust as a shoulder shape. Place the pad as if the breast were just that, with the neck side of the pad pointing toward the neck and the shoulder side in the cup area. Adjust the position slightly as needed for your shape.

Hope this makes sense.

I was reading through the questions and comments of the DTD.  One of the questions was whether or not one could use expanding foam to fill the dress form. Although I haven't used this method to fill a dress form I do have some advice on the subject.  I work in the theater and I have used this product quite extensively for filling forms.  This is a great product it creates a durable strong and light weight filler and if you have a mold the object can easily be re-created. 

The problem is two fold, first: Spray foam is designed for insulation and filling small cracks in your house.  The key word here being small cracks.  When you try to fill such a large space it takes hours if not days to dry and the outer layers tend to dry so thoroughly that even after you think it is dry it is still expanding.  This can cause distortion after the form is closed. 

The second problem is that in my experience after about two weeks a fill job of this size tends to shrink and settle considerably.  My experience was in an attempt to make a "plaster looking" Greek bust of a man.  We molded a three dimensional bust out of plasticine and cast it in plaster, then took a cast of the plaster with liquid latex. Then we filled the latex in two halves with touch n' foam, it worked great and allowed the clumsy actors to drop it in rehearsal and not damage it at all. But after two weeks the bust appeared (quite amusingly) to have aged 50 years and was wrinkled and quite disturbing. 

When all is said and done, I would definitely recommend NOT trying such a lengthy project as the DTD with the expanding foam, and sticking to the polyfil.
Thanks for listening,
Chris

Wow, Thank You for the great information!! I will try to get this up on the site real soon.

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Accuracy

One of the ladies in the class had a habit of standing with her hip thrown out a little bit and neither she or the "caster" caught this and her form was not right.

To me her form would be correct if she stood the way she normally does. This is the whole point. You are not supposed to "stand up straight" like grandma's used to say when pinning hems. If your normal stance is with a thrown out hip, than you should stand that way to be wrapped. Otherwise the form will not catch your real posture and then the garments you make from it will not lay right when you are standing your normal way.

I've saved my download and will let you know how it goes. I asked my DH to help me & be serious. I don't know how serious he will be. You know how they are. But it will be fun non the less.

Deborah

Husbands can be good wrappers. After all who knows your body better besides yourself? Having fun with it is great and I encourage it as long as there is a degree of seriousness so you end up with an accurate form. Sometimes it's hard to get a husband to behave enough, but if you can't I would just let it go where it does. You can always get a friend to help you make the form later. I really think creating fun memories is the glue that holds good marriages together.

Today I was checking fit of a jacket with the DTD and noticed that on the double, the jacket cannot be closed, but on me standing normally, it is fine.  When I put hands on my hips, the hem pulls up and the front strains.  So I went downstairs to check out the fit of a couple of made-to-measure blazers I have, and they do the same thing. The blazers definitely have plenty of ease.

It seems like the hands on hips posture somehow changes the torso dimensions, so I am wondering how I can fit anything using this particular form.  Or should I be striving for a fit that is not affected by putting my hands on my hips??

Any ideas or comments you have would be greatly appreciated!

Hummm, I haven't heard from anyone about this before. I do know that as much as the Double reflects the body I have still needed to fit the real person also. I have had various differences with each client. On my own double the bust is a bit different than mine mostly because I have such a small bust that it was hard to get the double to match it. What little is there keeps getting smushed when I use the double. And my bras do fit tighter on the Double than on me, but it hasn't made a big difference in fitting items I've sewn.

Your idea that the muscle structure changes when the hands are on the hips I think has much merit. I can see that the muscle under the bust can flex just enough to through off the form on that area. I'm not sure how to correct for this though other than to be aware of this area and do your best to relax your muscles during wrapping.

For your jacket fitting, I can see that it might not fit correctly because your Double arms were wrapped a little bit farther down the arm than I would wrap them. This may also be contributing to the jacket lacking the width to close for the arms are holding it away some.

In response to the women who wrote that her posture changed when she placed her hands on her hips:

I would suggest wrapping the bust and torso with the wrapee standing normally (hands at sides). The shoulder blades move with the arm, so when you place your hands on your hips, not only the musculature changes, but the shoulder blade position changes as well. Try wrapping the underarm area after wrapping bust and torso, then wrap the arms (this is where you can move your arms out, because you haven't wrapped your shoulder blade area yet), then wrap the shoulder blade area. This should minimize the posture problem.

Also, I was wondering if anyone had used paper tape in the bust area, for stability. I'm going to try it, and I'll let you know if it works.

April

Great suggestion. It may be a bit hard to wrap in the under arm area while her arms are at her sides, but it should be worth the extra effort.

A friend helped me make a dummy, but when she taped my waist, the tape was not tight enough. Consequently it works with loose fitting things, but I can't use it for skirts.

First of all I will tell you that I have a midriff bulge as well as a 'tummy',but I do have a waist indentation. I am not slim and trim like I used to be. Is there any way to remedy this problem without making a whole new dummy ?

This sort of thing happened to me too. My waist turned out to be 3" larger on the dummy. My hips and bust line were close enough, I thought, so I decided to perform some surgery on the waist area. I used an exacto knife to make 4 slits about 6" long intersecting the waist where side seams and center front & back seams would have been if the dummy where a garment. I divided the amount I needed to tighten the waist by the 4 slits and taped around the waist with one strip of tape, carefully closing each slit tighter by that calculated amount. It ended up looking like 4 darts. I used more tape to secure the tops and bottom of the slits until all was covered well.

I remeasured and checked the proportions by looking at the dummy and myself in a mirror. It worked well.

Examine yourself and the dummy carefully in a mirror and determine if your waist measurement is off all around the dummy or if maybe it only bigger in the tummy area. If so you can do my little operation method only in the front. I think that it is more likely that it is a little off all around though.

I just printed out the instructions you sent to me. Thanks!! One question before I start, I have a large bust and gravity has done its work well. Should I be wrapped so that is emphasized? or do I have it wrapped so that it is a smooth convex curve? Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks, Nikki

To answer your question I have to ask you one. Do you wear undergarments that emphasize or that retain your natural shape? How you wrap depends on how you want to look. Someone like me, who is small busted and likes to wear padded bras, should wear one when wrapping so that the garments you make fit the figure you are wearing them over.

Personally I think the smooth convex curve is flattering more than an unnaturally emphasized shape. But it's really up to you. Not having seen your shape it's hard to give an opinion. If you feel you looked better before gravity took it's toll, than by all means find some nice, supportive undergarments and wrap while wearing them. You will get a from of the shape you wrap. Understand that the garments you sew using that form will have to fit that shape, so you will have to wear those special undergarments with the clothing to look right. Am I making sense?

I hope this helps.

I just made a double (with the help of a friend who did the wrapping part) and after finishing it, put some of my shirts and jackets on it to see how they fit. I found that they stretched a bit across the chest, but on checking measurements, the double seems to be fairly accurate. I'm wondering if the arm stubs (about 3-4 inches long) are too long? They stick out a bit from the body (I made sure that I wasn't sticking my arms out during the wrapping), which happened during the stuffing.

I've noticed that professional dress forms stop at the shoulder, and I don't know if a bit of arm stub might be useful (or a hindrance?) in setting sleeves and such things?

My Double does have stubs that are about 10" from the shoulder, but I haven't been sewing many items that have set in sleeves so I haven't come across this problem. You are correct that most manufactured forms don't include the stubs and you certainly do not need them. If they are not an asset, just cut the tape at the shoulder, remove the stubs and add tape to close off the armhole at the shoulder to make it look like a manufactured form.

Before my illness I weighed around 102 to 104 pounds. Since, my illness made me go out of work I have gained the additional pounds with being unable to move around a lot and with the medications I am now taking. I have an illness called Erythromelalgia and being lazy is about the only way to not be in pain. We keep the home around 60 degrees, sometimes 58 degrees and my blood still burns my hands and feet. Cold air or cold water (ice water) is the only way to get relief. The reason I stated the above is I need some information from you. I was intending to make the dress form after I lost some weight. But living such a lazy life style it is hard to loose weight and I am anxious to make it now. If I make the dress form at my current weight and bulges, then loose some weight, can I take it and sort of reform it to (hopefully my lower weight and less bulges) a smaller size, without having to go through the whole process again?

Yes, it can certainly be altered for small amounts of difference. Instructions for this are on page 44. The difference in your weight now and your desired weight is not so much that alteration would be hard. If you were talking 20 pounds and more, I would suggest making a new form.

I am concerned though in your condition and the difficulty it will probably cause when you are being wrapped. It gets very stuffy in that tape and I am concerned it will be way too much for you. It usually takes a good 2 hours or more to do a wrapping. That could be a very difficult time for you to endure. Please don't put yourself in jeopardy. Having this dress form is not worth risking your health over.

Wouldn't it be better to use a body briefer or girdle to get a better shape then a tee shirt that fits loose, or even a shirt that is a size smaller to get a smoother line.

Definitely not. The whole point is to get a "True" representation of the body, not a better shape than what you are. The whole process is designed to capture even your posture, be it good or bad, so that you can then see where your flaws are (And we all have them) so you can better design and sew garments to either camouflage these flaws or showcase your good features.

That said, there is a good reason you may want to do as you suggest - If you are planning on wearing that same body briefer or girdle every time you wear a garment you have made using the Form, than it is a good idea to wear it for the wrapping BUT you also must use the T-shirt because you certainly do not want to cut the briefer when you cut the form off. This is the way most Costumers make their forms if they are using body shaping garment like corsets in their Garment construction.

Your website has been a fabulous tool to help answer all my questions about making a paper tape dress form! I have finally finished mine, but even though I am a small person, my waist measurement came out 3" larger on the form. I saw this exact same problem in your Q & A category but I am not quite sure exactly you mean by making 4 intersecting darts on the form to reduce the excess.
Since the front, back and side seams would be vertical, do you mean the exacto cuts would be horizontal to those imaginary seam lines? And...just by pulling in around the entire form after the cuts are made, is all the excess reduced?
Sorry, but I'm a very visual person and have difficulty trying to interpret written instructions! I knew there had to be some way to remove excess inches and I thought about cutting part of the form away and rebuilding it with additional tape, but I just wasn't sure HOW to do it!
I'd really appreciate your clarification on this process!
Thanks for your time!
Susan

The darts are vertical, like the darts in a dress pattern that shape the waist area.

I've not done the Paper tape method, so I don't know if the way I do things applies to it. I can only comment on doing the form with Duct Tape.

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Stand Ideas

About the cardboard tube:  Is the tube and a disk of cardboard on the floor, the "stand" that holds everything up, or am I misunderstanding it?

No, you are putting the cardboard oval on the floor only to position the hole markings so that when you cut your hole the cardboard tube is then stuck through the hole in the cardboard oval and the oval is slid up the tube to be positioned at the hip point you determined to become the bottom of your form.

I hope this is a little clearer now to you. It's very hard to describe these things - - - And Thank you for pointing out this little confusion. I will try to rewrite the instructions to clear this up.

I have also made my body double.  I was following Barbara's PVC suggestions from Feb. 4, 1998.  I have a question as to what she used in the bottom of the double.  Is there a way I can get her e-mail?  I'm not sure what she means when she talks about PVC toilet base.  Any help you can give will be appreciated.  Thanks

Say, Barbara, if you happen to be around could you please send an answer. I'm sure others are wondering too.

Here's your answer from a kind reader:

This is a toilet flange. It can be found in the plumbing department. I just got mine 2 nights ago and today hubby screwed the flange to the plywood base and had already cemented the pipe in. I am using a 4" diameter pipe (I figured this will allow me to use less stuffing and still have a good likeness. A friend and I are using newspaper to fill with as have done many ladies in her civil war reenactment group. I am still searching for the hanger. Thanks for the great site. Keep up the good work.

wendy

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Using

Leanna, I am starting a similar business as yours in the Denver CO area, and I was wondering how you charged for the double. My business is in period clothing, ritual robes and garb, children's heirloom, and fetish wear. Do you make a form for every one of your customers? Also, how would you fit a tight fitting figure shaping garment such as a 12-boned corset? I would appreciate your input.

Usually $75. I don't do many of them, only if the subject is far enough away to make fittings hard to do. Nothing is better than the real body to do fittings on, but for clients who can't make the distance, a Double sure is nice. Mostly, I use the Double of me for sewing for myself.

To do corset stuff you have to wrap the client in the corset. Once stuffed the form has a little give but not enough to move things around like a corset does.

I sew for a woman that has a 59 inch bust and a 75 inch hip area. I have been searching for a dress form so I can better fit her, but none that I have seen come close to the hip measurement. Would this be an option for me to make for her?? I don't quite understand how you get the pipe or pole to come up straight in the center of the form after it is made. If it wasn't straight all this effort would be for nothing. It is hard for this woman to get around as it is, and if I can pull this off, it sounds like a perfect solution for her and me.

Your customer is a bit larger than this method can help. She would have to be able to stand to be wrapped for a good 2 to 3 hours. If it's hard for her to get around this may be too difficult for her too. I have gotten several stories from larger ladies on how hard it is to endure the wrapping process. Some make it through by taking frequent breaks to sit, but this lengthens the process.

Getting the pole straight is a job, but there are many things in the instructions to help you get it right.

For your situation I would suggest wrapping the body only once. The instructions say to do it twice for stability, but I doubt your lady will be able to do it. You will probably end up with a less then accurate form, but for her I think it would be worth a try. It sounds like even a form an inch off her true measurements would be a great help to you.

Well ..... my friend had done one of these but she said they are temporary ..... how long do you think yours lasts .... of course our bodies do change I bought a store bought one ..... the squishy body type ... and love the concept .. but it is so limiting in some ways .. I still don't think the shape is correct .... and for those of us who are doing corseted type costuming ... we have to have more than one .... so this would be great to have an less expensive way to do one and one that is very custom and ...... the arms and sleeves ...... I have been having problems knowing what something will fit like with sleeves ..... and being able to raise my arms and have mobility in an outfit ...... how does the duct tape dress form work with that ?

Well, I've had my Double for about 5 years. Now, it really does not reflect my figure any longer for I have changed, but that's not the double's fault. It's still in good shape. I don't think it will last hundreds of years, but neither will I, so why does it have to? It will last long enough for your body to change so much that you have to make a new one.

A side note: I've had my Double for 8 years now and it's starting to show places where the tape is loosing it's stickiness. The Form is about an 2" larger than me now all the way around because the pressure of the stuffing is pushing on the tape in it's weakened state. Time for a new Double for me ;)

You are correct in thinking that corset wearers need to do things differently. You will need to wear your corset when being wrapped. There really is no easy way to corset the double once it is stuffed.

The Duct Tape Double (in my humble opinion) is the best dressmaker's form because it does model our every bodily oddity. No body is a perfect shape and we as dressmakers need to know where the asymmetrical places are to properly fit garments. BUT- no form, not even the Double, is a substitute for the real body. Every form has limitations for it can not move like the body can, so you still will have to put the garment on your body to do the final fittings and test your mobility.

I have discussed this idea with several people and it seems that the most common problem is supporting the ankle area so the form will stand up. I have seen whole body forms in professional studios that have really heavy duty wire running up both legs that inserts into the stand. But I have no clue where to purchase such wire or if it would be such a pain to get it up the leg of the form. It's hard enough to get the tube straight up the middle of the torso only form.

I don't know if doing this for pants would be useful since the posture would be such that the legs might not be at the right spacing to make designing possible. I'm sure you could do it but how would you stand so that your posture was right and your thighs would not be so close together that you could not fit fabric on the form to see the fit?

I think a good solution is to make the form to hang instead of stand. Get a really heavy duty hanger to set into the shoulder before stuffing and it should work out great!

Hi, I'm 16 and just starting to sew. I was reading your DTD FAQ, and saw something about a pants double. Why do you have to have a stand? Why not hang it from something? I thought about it, and I thought you could doing a whole body one but putting a hanger in the T-shirt and then filling it. For the pant double, you could just wrap higher up than pants normally go (past the waistline) and put a hanger in there. You would just need to tape it tightly. Maybe I misunderstood, but it was just a thought. :) Kristen

This is a great idea. If anyone out there tries this, please let us know how it does.

My question for you is - don't you have a problem with your straight pins "gumming up" when you stick them through the duct tape?

I haven't had a big pin gumming problem. I use mostly quilting pins that are long with that white knob at the end. It's not really like the scissors gumming which does pose a difficulty during the wrapping process.

If I were working with extra expensive silk, I could imagine that some of the gum could get on the fabric while you pull pins out that were into both fabric and form. But then again, this has not happened to me, yet.

Actually, this is what I learned to do first. You wrap more loosely for patterning than for the dress form. And you wrap only one layer, mark seam lines, darts, and plump line for grain, then cut off. Cut all seam lines and lay flat to use as a sloper. You do need to add your design ease for your garment, but it works quite well.
 

I suggest you use 3/4 " PVC pipe have your husband drill a hole on the inside of each leg, about 1/2" down on pipe( one hole only per pipe) knot elastic thru one hole to the other. Instant legs, they can withstand a lot of weight and movement.
Hope this adds to your creativity.
Sandy

Exactly how do you use a dress form??

Lots of ways, for what you have said in fitting the pattern to fitting the garment to draping fabric right on the form to make a garment. The first thing I did when I had mine don is to make myself a gown that had this bodice front gathered at the raised waistline. I put it one the form then draped it over one shoulder and set the garters so it stayed put over my front and gracefully fell over the shoulder with no attachment in the back. It's incredibly dramatic and it really stays put.

But with the DTD what do you pin the pattern too??  Are you pushing the pins straight into the tape??

Yes, right into the form. It's kind of fun and masochistic at the same time.

I'm a duct tape god in my own world. Last year I wore a 3 piece suit made of duct tape covering an existing 3 piece suit. Needless to say I got allot of attention. Of course, where I live it just made it to the local paper. I was so inspired by the first duct tape suit I decided I was wearing a duct tape tux to my senior prom. Now the prom is coming up I asked my girlfriend if she would let me design her a duct tape dress so that we can make a matching impression on the class of 2000 and it aorta got out of hand and now me my gf and at least 3 other couples are going in full duct tape outfits, different styles and colors of course just to make it so we are not to conformist to each other but still making the same impression. While surfing around for info on ordering different colored duct tape I came upon your site, thinking it was about making duct tape dresses. Looking at the pictures I thought that was a really odd way of making them since I made the original suit with out wearing it, after it was cleaned and pressed so it had all the creases in the right places. Anyway, I was wondering what you think about the idea of making the dress on the girl, since the way you made the dummy things would work if the dress were to be skin tight, and I would like your feedback and ideas about how to make a duct tape dress since you're further along that road then I am.

I love your idea, but I don't have much advice for you. I've never tried to make garments out of Duct Tape, but I think it's really, really neat!

I think I might start off by going to Good Will and buying some cheep and simple gowns to tape over kind of like the way you did your suit. Put the gown on the person, tape the basic parts, then let your imagination take over and style them with the tape, adding things like flowers or other accents. You can even get colored tape at some hardware stores.

If you can scan some pictures of you and your friends on prom night, I'd LOVE to see them!!!

NOTICE:

There is a contest for Duct Tape Prom Fashions. Go to:

http://www.octanecreative.com/ducttape/fashion/index.html

for more information and to see pictures of the past winners.

I finally got my sewing body taped up, but the duct tape is very odifferous. When I got home from work last night, my whole house smelled like the adhesive. Do you have any suggestions for getting rid of or cutting down on that smell? It has my allergies in a real snit!

Thanks, Vanessa

I have had a few reports of this and I don't really know why some of you have noticed a problem when so many do not. I think it may be the brand of tape, or maybe because you are susceptible to it because of your allergies. I never smell anything because I'm just not good at
noticing smells on a whole.

I would try leaving the form outside to air it out. I doubt this will totally eliminate the smell, but it can't hurt. And maybe covering it in a jersey knit fabric may help.

I'll ask a few of my friends who are allergy prone if they have any ideas that might help. If you find something that helps, please let me know.

I've spent a lot of time at your site in the past - I love the idea of doing a personal double. Actually, we started one, but didn't finish it. Used duct tape, and the fumes are more than my asthma can take. Is that normal, or is there another brand I should use?
It was downright scare to see how much I look like Alfred Hitchcock!

Janet

I don't know about it being "normal", but you are not alone. I have had a few reports of folks having their asthma bothered by the duct tape. I have suggested trying a different brand. I have used some that I didn't like the odor of either. I have not gotten any one who tried this reporting that it was better.

The only other suggestion I have would be to do it in a well ventilated room, windows open and fans going. But if it really bothers you I would say that it's not worth suffering over. I worry about folks wrapping themselves too tight too and getting hurt. There are other ways to make a dress form double if you really want one.

Good Luck if you do decide to try it.

Hi Leanne, I have really enjoyed your web site.I am a dressmaker in Ontario, Canada. By coincidence, my business is also called A Stitch In Time. I have made the paper tape dummy in the past but thought I would try the duct tape dummy. They are faster to make. The tape is readily available. My biggest concern is the odor that continues to come from them. I am concerned that it may be somewhat toxic and in my small sewing area, this is a concern ,not to mention the odor that penetrates the clothing that is on them for a while. I am wondering about a method of sealing them to prevent this. Maybe after time, the odor goes away. I am curious to know if this is a problem for you and if you have any suggestions.

Thank you. Charlene

The odor has never been a problem for me. I have a couple forms in my sewing room at all times. I do not leave garments on them for long periods so I can't say that the smell transfers any. I used to have a gown on my personal form for display, but since that form is no longer the same as I am, I no longer leave it on display. Since I don't notice the smell, I don't think I'm a good judge of this anyway.

I have had a few folks write that it has been an extreme bother for them. I think there is one letter in the Q & A section concerning one lady's difficulties. I didn't have any advice for her at the time and asked for any comments anyone might offer to help those who are bothered by the odor. I doubt time would simply solve it for these folks. Maybe a spay sealant would help, but I would think that the smell of the sealant would be an added bother.

I think the only answer to this question is that if you are bothered by odors, use the paper tape method. It's a good method too. And some folks have even reported that they find it easier.

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Classes, Teaching or Hosting

I am planning to teach your duct-tape method for some ladies and for my classes at the community college and was wondering if you could give me an estimate on how long each of the procedures takes: taping/cutting off; stuffing the form; and the finishing process (i.e. making the stand) ?

Well, I have done the wrapping part in as little as 1 1/2 hours, but it can take up to 3. The stand/stuffing process takes another 2 to 3 hours. It's a good idea to add "giggle" time to this. I have done a demo of the process in 1 hour. That involves wrapping only on the first few steps to give an idea of the procedure, than I show cutting off and explain the stuffing.

I just did a class in Branson for a group of 15 ladies. It took us 3 1/2 hours to wrap everyone and another 1/2 for clean up. We broke up into pairs with the odd person being my wrapping demo person. Half did the wrapping first than we switched roles and the other half got wrapped.

We than took a break for dinner and came back for a stuffing demo that took 1 1/2 hours.

Last fall I assisted 6 customers in making their own dress form based on the article in Threads and the information you provided over the Internet.  The class was a lot of fun and very beneficial to the participants.  The only problem is that because I spent so much time wrapping and "teaching" I didn't get a form for myself.  (You know, the cobblers kids never have shoes...)  Question:  Do you provided this service (DTD) to customers.  If so, I would very much like to have you wrap me.

I haven't done this often and don't advertise it - yet. But I have done wrappings for $75. This includes up to 3 hours of wrapping and the supplies for the wrapping only, not the stuffing. You take the form home and stuff it.

Is there any where in the U.S. where you could get this form today? Sure do like your idea I thought maybe you made this type of form.

I'm not sure if I understand your question, but here's what I think you are asking.

I make these forms for the customers I am making garments for frequently. I have done wrappings for friends who just want one for themselves so they can sew their own garments without having to change their clothing every time they need to see how the fit is doing for the item they are working on.

I haven't been doing them on a regular basis just as a form for sale. It would be difficult because people have to come to me, not just send their measurements. And selling the instructions or kits wouldn't be exactly legal because this idea is not originally mine. I've just added my techniques and experience to the free instructions on my web page. They are here as a "Do it yourself" kind of thing.

I would like to teach classes though. But no one has yet asked for this. I think it would make a nice addition to some Sewing Convention's class schedule. I have thought of doing seminars here in Cincinnati, but I would need so many people to participate to make the rental of a room financially workable that it would be difficult to get that many people to Cincinnati at one time.

I am wondering if it is possible to teach my advanced students (who have little experience) this technique? A great project that will be able to use in their future sewing experiences. Any ideas or advice would be appreciated.

It's possible. High school students are prone to be giddy though. It takes a lot of maturity to see your body in it's real light and I think this might make it difficult, but not impossible. I have had several Technical and Collage level classes report with success, but no one attempting High school level. I would suggest instead of making dressmaker forms that you use the method as a pattern drafting technique. That way you are only wrapping the body once and the expense of stuffing the thing is eliminated. Besides, the teenage body is still changing. They would not be able to use their forms in a few years down the road. It is a big project and should be done once the body is rather stable.

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Other Methods

I have a friend who is terminally ill with an acute leukemia. She has a catheter inserted in her chest for the administration of blood transfusions and chemotherapy. She enjoys sewing and dress making. Would making a dress form using the techniques you outline be considered a safe activity for her?

Susan

I'm not a Doctor but I do think this is a bad idea. The wrapping process takes 2 to 4 hours. It's sometimes hard for people who have no physical problems. With all that tape around you it gets hot and constraining. Some people have written to me that they had problems breathing.

I think it would be better for her to look into things like the Uniquely You form.

To help clear up some of the confusion about where and why your form was done this might help:

The French Couture makers have been making "Paper copies" of women for more than 200 years. They did it so they were able to have Madame for a personal fitting when Madame was not available. They were usually made from Madame who had been wrapped in muslin tapes, then wrapped in paper mache to which they let dry. Then Madame's shape was cut off of her (with a razor) from neck to each ankle and to each wrist. Then with more paper mache Madame's form was covered again over the seams.

Then after it dried the form was stuffed with loose cotton and hung with a hook from a wire stand and the holes were also paper mache. Then the whole thing was lacquered with several coats of shellac and left to dry till hard. So Madame need only order the latest fashions and then appear for a fitting when the dresses were in the final fitting stages.

My mother explained this to me when she made such a form for my older sister (using paper tape and a tee shirt) when I was a youngster many years ago. I then was able to see an original one that was owned by a woman who was in her late 80's and had gone to Paris to have one made for herself.

Today a few the remaining Couture houses have muslin copies of their exclusive and long time customers so that they need only call up and order as needed.

This should help you with some of the history. And just to let you know yes I have done the paper mache mannequin myself because with a 37" sleeve I needed an assistant that didn't complain.

Sincerely, Jon

Much thanks for the great information, Jon!!!

Does your "Instructional Manual" (price $25.00) work the same for the paper tape double? Does it tell me how much paper tape to buy and do I proceed just like the instructions for the duct tape double? Do you not recommend the paper tape? I don't know much about it, but I'm wanting to do the paper tape unless you tell me otherwise.

No, they aren't the same thing. You don't stuff in the paper tape method.
Here's a link for instructions.
http://www.taunton.com/th/features/fitandfabric/clone/5.htm

Dear: Leanna,
Hi, my name is Katherine, and I was wondering how do you make dress forms out of paper mache`? Because I really like the look of colorful paper mache`,. So if you know then please e-mail me back with the instructions on how to make one. Thank You. Bye.

My instructions use Duct Tape. I don't know of any that use paper mache. The closest I know of is the paper tape method. Check out the link on the question above this one.

Dear Leanna,

Your website is terrific. I noticed that one of your DTD respondents has done the form in the full body form. Are the instructions on the full-body wrap that one gets from the order form included for the full body form? I am hoping to use this method in a fitting class that I teach at the community college class level and want to work out all the details before my class meets in the fall. I hope to work on it very soon and will be placing my order as soon as I hear from you. Thank you for your time and assistance.

Jeannine

How neat to hear from a namesake. My first name is Jeanine, I have been using my middle name for a long time now. How interesting to have someone like you write!

OK, to answer your question I am sending you the last picture in the file that shows the results you get by following the instructions I wrote. Many nice folks have written to me about how they have taken my instructions and made little changes to get a different form to fit their needs. These I have put on the site so everyone can see that you don't have to follow mine to the letter and to inspire you to be creative.

I have not had need to do a full body form in my business. The torso has been sufficient for all I've needed to do so far.

I have also added a link to Moonshadow's page that has a set of instructions to make a whole body form. http://www.lycanthrope.net/~moonshadow/fursuit/dt.html It has 22 pictures plus written instruction. Printed out it's 4 pages. My instructions have 94 pictures and it is 39 pages printed out. It has a lot more detail, but you can really use either to make a nice form.

I purchased a booklet Make Your Own Body Form by Joyce Perhac. It's a 10 page booklet, must be self published. I got it from Pure Whimsy Gifts & Collectibles, http://www.purewhimsy.com. The price was $12.00. And it was overpriced for what it was. I vaguely remember Sew News Magazine having a short piece about this method several years ago. Your instructions are essentially the same as the booklet. In fact, you give more info on finishing & stuffing.

There are many ways to make custom dress forms. Some have been described in the section above. The Duct Tape Method has been around for a long time and I'm sure there are many other sources of information to be found about how to do it. Since I put up this page I have found that this is a preferred method for those who are into costuming, either historical or fantasy. I might even go as far to say it has become a kind of folk art.

I've also seen this method used to create a custom fitted pattern by wrapping with the tape only once, marking the seam lines, and cutting it off on the markings.

I do not want to give the impression that my way is the only way. My instructions simply describe the way I prefer to make this type of form. It has worked well for me and I hope you'll find it useful also.

I was especially intrigued by the idea of wrapping the figure just once to create a custom fitted pattern.  Have you tried it for any of your customers?  Do you have any advice for me before I plunge in?  I would love to hear from someone who has tried it.

Actually, this is what I learned to do first. You wrap more loosely for patterning than for the dress form. And you wrap only one layer, mark seemlines, darts, and plump line for grain, then cut off. Cut all seam lines and lay flat to use as a sloper. You do need to add your design ease for your garment, but it works quite well.

I've done this with some great results for men too. I love your additions of the sleeve for the neck opening. I'm not sure about the double layer for the bust area... Do you have any additional suggestions for doing this for men?? It has worked great for me as I mostly make medieval/renaissance costuming and there are few patterns let alone historically accurate ones.

Visit Moonshadow's page at:
http://www.lycanthrope.net/~moonshadow/fursuit/dt.html

I haven't personally done one for a male figure yet. No volunteers. I don't have any real different suggestions, only that I would guess it would be much easier without so many curves. Male bodies, as a rule are more straight with gradual curves. Unless you're a muscle builder.

There are historical patterns out there, but they are a royal pain to make up. Just do what works for you. Did you see my Henry VIII? http://www.leanna.com/Stitch/work.html

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Miscellaneous

I am the step-mother of a 16 year old and she wants to make a duct tape prom dress.(for the scholarship money) For the last 10 years, I have always tried to help her with whatever project she needs help with. With a duct tape dress, I don't have a clue.

Can you help me at all. Thanks, Doris

The only words of wisdom I have is, "Duct Tape can't be sewn on." What ever you do, you can not use a sewing machine directly on the Duct Tape. You can make a dress and then cover it with Duct Tape, or use the tape to connect pieces together, but if you try to sew the tape you will ruin your machine.

I was wondering if you could answer my question about Duct Tape. It was homecoming week at our school and one of the dress up days was Trash Bag and Duct Tape day. SO my creativity went to order. I made a fabulous skirt and shirt out of trash bags and well you guessed it duct tape. I also thought it would be trendy to put duct tape on the end of my brand new white leather shoes, around the soul is rubber. I was thinking it would stick so I took it off a few minutes later and it didn't stick so I was all OK cool. SO I did it again at the end of the day it was stuck. What is the remedy to get the rest of the nasty sticky things off of my white shoes? Please please please tell me what to do.

Thanks so much,
Shannyn

Try spraying the residue down with WD-40 or Duck® brand Adhesive Remover (it has a really nice citrus scent) and let it sit for a bit. The residue should whip right up. You can also roll duct tape sticky-side-out around your hand and dab up bits of remaining residue.

If the goo is only on the rubber part of the shoe, it should come off with a little work, but if it's on the leather, you might end up with some of the leather damaged.

Good morning. Love your website! I came across an old Acme Stretchable dress form in a yard sale and would like to know if your could help me to understand how to accurately shape it to fit me. I've played with it and each time I think I have one measurement right I find I have thrown off another. Any suggestions? Thank you,Karen

I can't say that I have ever seen an Acme Stretchable dress form. Is it like the kind of old time forms that were made out of wire that you put on your body and shapes it to your figure? These were hard to manage and didn't recreate the figure very well because when taken off the body they were always bigger than you. I think that's why they stopped making them.

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