Bustle Riggings

Riggings are the hardware that is added to the train to lift the fabric of the train up so that it is off the floor. Most gowns do not come with riggings. You need to add them by creatively designing where the bustle points will be. It is an art and a science. Function is important, but so is esthetics.

The most asked question I get about this is concerning the hanger loop that most gowns do have. This is a loop of ribbon sewn to the underside of the train. It is used to hold the train up while the gown is on the hanger, not the bride.

added January 2008

I have purchased a wedding dress at boutique (not a wedding boutique) with an extra long delicate lace/pearls,etc train that I do not know how to pin up or hold up. The back has buttons zippering from the top to the bottom and along the way there is a tiny satin hoop, there is also a satin hoop on the underside/inside of the dress. It also came with two individual straps that are about 8 inches long with hooks on them but I don't see where they hook up to on the dress???? I'm very confused about how to use them and I have not a clue where to start to hook it up without damaging the dress. How do I hook it up to hold up the train because it's a little weighted. Also, would you recommending cleaning the dress at home with any home remedies? Thanks, Cammy

I can not recommend that anyone try to clean a gown at home, especially if you have no experience laundering these types of garments. The risk of ruining the gown just because you are trying to save a little money is too great. I have laundered dry clean only items that I own and have had a little success, but I have also ruined many items I would have liked to wear again.

Gowns usually do not come with bustles already designed in them. The manufacturers have no idea what the height of the bride that will eventually buy this dress is, so there is no way to design the bustle. The satin hoop you found on the underside of the dress is for supporting the gown on a hanger. The straps with the hooks on them might be for a bustle but I have no way to find the loops they go in without being able to look at the dress. You have to look very carefully all over the underside of the dress for the loops. I position my loops near the waist. From your description of these straps I can't tell if there is only one hook on each strap, or many hooks on each strap. If there are many hooks, the loops might be in a successive line from where the strap is sewn to the waist creating more of an Australian Bustle look than a French.

added December 2007

Hi,
i just got my dress today, and im not sure if im 100% happy with how she did the bustle.. i think it is french style she has 5 hooks and to bustle i tie with a ribbon... when the dress is down i can see the loop through the dress and one part is bunched up a little from where she has sewn them on. am i suppose to be able to see this when it is down?

thanks for your time, i have attached a pick of my dress, its made of chiffon on the top layer.
dani

I'm sorry but the picture you sent is no help to me. I can not answer your question without seeing your dress and what you are describing. I need to see a picture of your dress. I am willing to bet that in the picture I would not be able to see the loops you are objecting to. Most brides worry way too much about folks seeing the bustle riggings. Guest at your wedding are not looking at your backside that closely. They are looking for your smiling face. So, whatever the situation is, I would probably tell you to not worry about it.

added February 2007

I have a quick question--I prefer a traditional bustle and the seamstress said that the hook she is using is white. My dress is natural silk so the color is in-between white and ivory. My dress is very simple...no beading or lace so you can't hide the hook. I doubt it will be noticeable but is it possible to find a hook that matches in color?

What we used to do before they sold white hooks is the paint the silver ones with nail polish. You can get it in many colors from white to various ivories.

added October 2006

Hi Leanna,

I did a chiffon/organza overlay tear/repair on an outside gown for a client and it went well. I added decoration with lace that complimented the already existing lace and did a more secured pick-up (2 pts) bustle for her gown. She purchased the gown used and the previous bustle treatment had made the rip in this overlay. It was a thread chain about the size(circumference) of a thumbnail.

Then I did some alterations for a different client who also had a gown with a chiffon/organza overskirt and the same thing happened to hers' from the bustle I had created for her( after a successful evening, tho, not right away!), which was the small 1/4 inch size loops from your 'bustle DVD' that I had purchased. I created 2 loops, about 3.5 inches on either side of the center seam and put hooks up near the end of her zipper. I think the hooks are what tore this particular overlay (MY BAD!!)

My question is this:
Is there a better bustle solution for wedding dresses with chiffon/organza overlays? The under skirt type, possibly? How do you convince a bride to accept that one if they're worried about how their bottoms look?
Should I have used satin buttons? (There were none on this gal's gown. like some dresses that have all the buttons down the zipper for effect.)

I DO appreciate any advice/experience you can lend on this subject.
Thanks again for your time!
Susan

I've not had a bride report back any problems with any of my bustles. There may have been but I have not been told. Chiffon is a delicate fabric but it's usually backed with a more stable satin. When the bustle loops or hooks are sewn it goes through the chiffon and the satin and then I back it with a wire stay for more support. The only way it would tear is if someone at the reception was rough with it or if the bride was doing something that would let a part of her hem become accessible to a guest stepping on the gown and that is not under my control. I have not had a situation where I needed to make a bustle point on a chiffon only layer. I have done lace only. In this case I used a small white wire as a backing for the loop. The bride did not report any problems.

When talking to a bride about her bustle I try to give her many options of design. I let her know the pros and cons of each and let her decide what look she wants. Often something has to be sacrificed for the sake of the "look" the bride wants. The French Bustle is the most secure but often brides don't like the look. I try to help them make a wise choice as opposed to just a "look" choice. I find that many Moms object to the exposed buttons more than the brides. I ask them if at all the weddings they have been at in their life have they ever noticed exposed buttons that didn't seem to be part of the design of the gown. They always say no. I assure them that they have been there at some wedding and if you did not notice them or see them as odd, neither will the guests at your wedding.

I don't see how the hooks could have torn the overlay on that one gown. Maybe they hooked it wrong and some of the dress was improperly hanging from your hook but I don't see that as reflecting poorly on your workmanship. Receptions are sometimes chaotic affairs where anything can and does happen. It sounds to me like you have done everything in your creative power to give your customers secure bustle designs. I can't think of anything right now that you could have done differently but if I do I'll be sure to let you know.

added March 2006

Thank you for your website, it's extremely informative!
I have a question about the bustle. I just purchased a used wedding gown which has a bustle already. I noticed the stitching for the bustle appears on the outer skirt, and it's very noticeable (1/2 cm long stitching) for each point. I don't like it, but is this normal/necessary to make sure the skirt picks up and holds, or is it a seamstress flaw? I'm wondering if it can be taken out and redone, however, the fabric may have stretched there and may be better to leave in. Thank you,
Susan

This is normal and necessary. The stitches have to go through all layers of fabric to hold up the train. They do show a little if you are looking closely, BUT no one ever sees them standing back from the gown. No one at the wedding is going to have their noses right up on your train looking for bustle stitches. And they will not show in pictures either.

Go look at the pictures here:
http://www.leanna.com/Bridal/Bustles.htm
In all of these gowns there are bustle stitchings that show on the outer skirts if you look up close enough but you can't see anything in the pictures.

added March 2006

My daughter has a polyester satin bridal gown that we just had bustled up by a seamstress in our neighborhood. The gown has a very long train. She put 3 satin buttons on it and put 3 loops to attach to it. Actually she put 3 thin elastic loops at each of the 3 places because she said it was heavy. The first time I tried to attach the loops, one of them pulled out. The other ones were pulled down about an inch from the weight of the train. I am afraid that they are going to break easily at the reception. Do you have any ideas as to what else we could use that wouldn't break? Also, I am wondering if you think we need more than 3. There is a scallop look where the material dips down between the buttons or is this effect ok?
I would really appreciate your advice. You have a wonderful website.
Thanks,
Debbie

I make loops using thread and knot them like macrome. Here's a picture to show you how to rig it: http://www.leanna.com/Bridal/bimages/bustle01.JPG

Here's a close-up of another gown. It shows the loop better:
http://www.leanna.com/Bridal/bimages/PickUp03.jpg

You can also use 1/8" ribbon. Carefully remove the elastic loops and sew on loops of ribbon.

added August 2003

I have heard of using bias tape to bustle a train, how well does this work? I assume it creates a balloon effect, but would it work well with a heavy satin? Is the bias tape strong enough to hold the skirt up? Would it just be in the center of the train, or on the sides also? My dress has a fitted waist and full skirt, but no waist band/seam and no decoration below the bust. What type of bustle would you recommend?

Deborah

I've heard of sewing a ribbon across the back of the dress and looping the train through it and it is held up that way, but I have not seen it done this way. It's much more secure to use ties or hooks and eyes.

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