Lace-up backs

Since the popularity of the lace-up back style and the usfullness of using this design element to make a bodice larger many ladies have been writing questions about the subject and it's various applications. I have been putting these in different sections of the question section and have thought it would be good to collect them all here.

I have found a dress that I really like except that it has a lace-up back:

http://www.maggiesottero.com/dress.aspx?keywordText=erin&line=m&keywordType=any&pageSize=12&page=2&style=A3090
What I am wondering is whether you think it is possible to replace a lace-up back with a button or zipper back. I haven't bought the dress. I see a lot of comments about replacing a button or zip back with a lace-up back but not the reverse. What do you think?

Kate

addded May 2009

Hi Leanna,

I stumbled on your website when google searching how to remove a zipper & replace it with lacing for my daughter wedding dress. I have done a lot of sewing in the past, so I feel that I can handle this. I got some info from the seamstress at David's Bridal on the modesty panel. I was just wondering if there was any website you could point me to that had a little more detailed description on how to do this alteration, before I start removing the zipper. thanks!!

I don't know of an written "How-to" for this. It's really hard to write a how-to when every wedding gown is different to start off with. The zippers are sewn in differently and sometimes theres the added corset inside the gown to deal with. You just have to study the construction of your gown, take out the zipper and insert the loops for lacing while putting back what was there to hold in the zipper.

Most often boning has to be added to the sides of the opening because zippers usually do not have boning next to the teeth.

I just bought a dress the other day and it didn’t quite fit right, so I wanted to put in a back panel that laced-up. I asked a friend and she said that they sale kits for that sort of thing, but I can’t find anything and maybe it is just because I am searching for the wrong thing. I wanted to know if you have any recommendations on what I want to do and where I could find such a thing. Thank you in advance for the help if possible.

added December 2008

Hi Leanna,

I bought a gown, it is beaded in the front with an all lace back with buttons. It will not button from the mid back and up. My question is can the buttons be removed and lace tie ups done to a gown that was a button style? I know that the privacy panel needs to be anchored to one side, and then floats from there to allow for tightening or loosening. But can a button back be converted to a laceup? There is only 5/8 inches on either side to let out and I would need to let it out about 4 inches total for it to work.

Just about any type of back can be converted into a lace-up style. Your task is to find a seamstress who can do this in your area. Try asking at fabric stores. They usually have a list of ladies who hire out for sewing.

Hi Leanna, I am currently making a grad dress for a girl and she is requesting some alterations to the design of the pattern. I have read about the lace up back on your site (very helpful!) but have a few more questions.

She is requesting a lace up back from the waist up with eyelets (or grommets) instead of loops. I am concerned about the strength of the fabric so the eyelets aren't creating pulls in the fabric itself (or puckers). Oh yes - the dress is taffeta. I have tried out some grommets on scrap and it seems I will require the fabric, interlining, interfacing and lining to have enough strength for this. That seems excessive. Should I run some boning along the grommets to keep them from pulling instead, or perhaps using all layers in the back panels only?

She really has her heart set on these grommets. Should I try to dissuade her? I'm worried if I do it wrong the stress of wearing it all day will cause them to tear out. Thanks for the time you take to help all of us!

You need to tell her your concerns clearly and so that she understands the risk she is taking. She will not want to listen and will ask you to do this anyway, but you need to make sure she understands the situation she is creating. When she says to do it anyway, charge her any extra you need to and make it clear that she has asked for this extra charge.

I would add boning to both the inside and outside areas of the grommets and interline the taffeta. This is what you are charging extra for - AND make sure she knows this will NOT guarantee that the taffeta will not tear. It most likely will no matter what you do. She will tie this dress way too tight and the act of dancing will make a mess of it. This is not your fault. She is asking for something really silly, but she is a teen and doesn't know any better.

First, let me just say that your website is great and has been so helpful!
I am considering this dress. Measurements are 34" bust, 29" waist and 38" hips. It is a silk sheath with an empire waist.
The thing is, the bust measurement is about 3" too small for me. The waist and hips are about 1/2-1" bigger than I need. Do you think a corset back could be added to a dress like this to fix this problem? From reading your website, it seems like it would work, but I'm not sure because of the empire waist and the other measurements being a bit big.

Hi
I really like a dress, but i cant find the same design with a lace up back (Venus K003W) Do you think it would be possible to alter it to a lace up back? How much does it usually cost? (approx?)

Thanks! Marie-Eve

I need to see a picture of the back of the dress to give you any kind of answer.

this is the dress
http://www.venusbridal.com/cgi-bin/description.asp?dress=K003W&dressline=VenusWoman

Thanks! Marie-Eve

The back is simple enough that it can be done. What someone in your area will charge for it I can't say, but I would give a guess-tament of about $80 and tell you it could be more when I actually see the dress and can look at what the construction inside it is.

Hi I am getting married in three and a half months and my dress is just too small. I don't want to go and buy another dress and I don't think I can loose as much weight as I will need to before the day, so I was considering having it lace up the back with a privacy panel under it. My question is how do I insert a privacy panel and how wide should it be. I am good at sewing but do not want to damage my dress and want to make sure I go about it the right way. Thank you so much.
Laura

The privacy panel isn't inserted. It's tacked to one side and the other side floats so the lacings can be tied as tight as you want or loosened during the day.

The panel needs to be at least 4 inches larger than the gap you are creating in the back to cover the area without worry.

It would help you to go to a bridal store and try on some laced gowns. You can see how it works and get ideas of what you can do for yours.

I have read all of your answers on your website. I can see so much of myself in so many of the people that wrote in! I noticed that you said that taking a zipper out and making a dress lace up the back can be done. This is what I want to do to mine. It fits fine in the waist and hips, but is too small at the top of my back and bust. It has stays and capped sleeves so it should stay up fine. I also have a seamstress to work on it for me. Can you just explain what materials will be used and what all will be done? Do those loops have to be sewn on individually and reinforced? I just want to make sure it will look ok. I love the dress and don’t want to mess it up! Thank you so much for all of your help! We all appreciate it!

The loops are a continuous tape of whatever I think will look good. I use rattail a lot. I do not cut each one. I sew them in a snake like fashion, reinforcing each very well. Your seamstress won't necessarily do it the same way as me but that would not make it wrong. She needs to do it as she knows how to do her best work. If she tried to follow my way she might do it very poorly.

Hello Leanna; I'm so happy to have found your website. I believe many people are relieved to have very good advice here. I also have a question about a satin dress, with princess seams ,and zippered back, with drop shoulder cap sleeves. My young friends wedding is in June and she is very determined to wear this lovely gown which is 6"s too small between the top of the zipper and does not taper very comfortably until it is opened fully. She would like to have lace up loop and ribbon but the waist would still pucker in the back if it were done up as far as the waist. Is it a bad idea or unacceptable to add inches to the side seams? She will wear this dress if she has to safety pin it on, and the design is truly wonderful on her. I have done many many alterations for shops in my area but do you think that side seams do not appear to have the allowance that they used too? Can you help me? I have never done such an extreme"let out" as this. Thank you so much. Annie

I really hate having to put fabric in the side seams to make a dress larger. It looks so tacky. If you have no other choice, it's best to make the pieces large. The larger they are the more they will look like panels that were original to the dress. The smaller they are the more it looks like, "Advertisement: I am too fat for this dress!".

I have done the lacing thing a few times now with much success. I do understand the pucker thing. You can try adding boning along the side of the lacing loops. This should fix the problem.

Lace-up Backs

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