Busts and Bodices

Often the bodice is the focal point for a bride's concerns about fit. Boobs come in all shapes and sizes. Woman are used to this, but unfortunately, many wedding gown designers have no clue that it matters. These gowns are made as if all woman had the same shape in the same place. This often makes it a challenge to fit this area. As a general rule - taking in is better than letting out. This is why bridal stores order the gowns for the largest body measurement then take in the other areas. What makes the bust area tricky is that taking in a dart often has the opposite effect. It makes the bust mound greater. With patience, a skilled alteration specialist can overcome the difficulties to get a good fit.

I read through your web site and all the remedies that you provided and pray you may have one for me. My daughter who lives in another state, is getting married in June. In the fall we started looking online trying to find the 'perfect' dress. We were looking for a modest dress that wasn't low and that covered the arms. We couldn't find one online, so when I was visiting her at Christmas, we were able to check out quite a few bridal shops. Well, she found the one she liked and at the time the gown did not appear to be too low. Well, she just went in for her fitting and just called and is upset because she feels that it is going to be too low. The lady who does the alterations, said that nothing can be done to lift it. Do you have any suggestions? Now I feel badly, at the time it did not appear low and I thought that by altering it, it would raise up even more. Is there any possible way that anything could be added to the top just to lift it a few inches, without looking totally rigged?

Your alteration lady may be correct that you can not lift the bodice. She might be seeing that it would throw off the bust point higher than your daughter's breasts are and look very funny. I'm sure there is not enough fabric in the princess seams on the front of the bodice to reshape the bust area and the lace would cause a difficulty too. Sometimes it can be lifted a small amount (less than an inch) by taking in the side seam below the waist. This would move the waist point lower and forces the bodice up, but you have to take care to not disturb the bust point.

There is a decorative braid at the top of the neckline. It looks like it might have beads sewn on it. You can take that off and replace it with something wider. This can be another braid or a simple satin band. You can do many things to this addition to make it look natural like pleating the satin or sewing beads on the braid. You could also add a lace trim that is similar to the flower pattern of the lace on the gown bodice and let her skin show through the lace pattern or you can also back it but this would be very tricky for you would need to match the base fabric of the gown which is not easy.

You have not seen this gown on your daughter. I am willing to bet that she is looking down at her cleavage and seeing more than she thought she would. But this viewpoint is not what guests at the wedding see. Does she have a friend who is about her size who can put the gown on and let her see it standing in front on her? It is amazing the difference in viewpoint that is seen when you look down on yourself verses what others see looking at you. The neckline might be just fine but she is panicking because of what she sees looking down on herself.

Hi Leanna--thanks for sharing your wealth of knowledge with us brides! I was hoping you could expand on answer you gave earlier about modesty panels for low cut bodices. I tried on a halter style gown I loved, but the front is too low-cut for me. I was thinking of having some type of lace or silk panel sewn in, but I saw that you said these often look cheap. Is there anyway to make a low-cut halter dress more modest without looking cheap? Thanks for any ideas!

If you do not wish your cleavage to show it is best to select a gown design that already covers this area. In my opinion, anything that I have seen done ends up looking tacky.

Hello
I came accross your website while looking for an answer to my problem. I am getting married in April. My mother and I have made my wedding gown. It is an A "frame" dress, with or with out straps, I will wear it with. I am Very large (40 DD) I feel like the dress is too tight on my chest, my mom says it looks fine. I am wondering just how tight it should be. It isn't unbearable. but it is a little restrictive. I dont want it too loose, but I do have a little tiny bit of side boob showing. How hard will it be to add small side vents, just a little breathing room. Maybe a half inch to and inch each side. This is probably totally confusing to you, but any helf you can offer would be great. Thank you for your time.

jennifer

If you only need a half inch then just let out the side seam 1/4 on each side. That will give you 1/2 inch per seam.

The top should not be too tight. It should rest softly on your neckline without gapping. It should not be bitting into your sides and creating "side boobs". "Too tight" is a matter of how you feel as much as how you look. If you are feeling it is too tight it probably is.

Hello! Just found your site and I have a question about a dress I’m getting ready to order. It seems to have a problem with creasing horizontally at the waist. I tried on an 8 and it was very tight, and the store measured me and thinks I need to order a size 10, and they are confident that this will fix the problem. The boning ends right where it creases. Do you think that, if the larger size doesn’t fix the problem, additional (and longer) boning could be added to fix it? Or is this just not the dress for me?

You are very observant to notice the boning. Yes, this is the problem and ordering a larger size will not fix it. I see this often. Designers stop the boning before they should. The only way to fix this is to extend the boning past the creasing point. You might even need to add boning to seams where there is not any. That is a common problem too.

Hello,

I have been on your site and very much like your feedback. I am really hoping you can help me.

Style of My Dress: Satin split-back A-line with beaded cuff, hem, and inset. It is White with Apple Red as the Trim Color. (Pictures of the 1st gown fitting- Prior to Alterations are attached)

My issues are as follows:

(a) Bodice not laying flat across bust line.
(b) Bust look saggy, but there is a horizontal crease running along under my bust.
(c) If I pull tightly on it this (either upwards or downwards) it disappears. The seamstress says it is because the boning ends under the bust and there is nothing she can do.
(d) It is a strapless A-line. My problem is that I feel it doesn’t fit me properly in the bodice. It makes my breasts appear pointy. The dress is flush with my skin at the top, then it “peaks” right over the breasts and there is actual space there where it does not touch my skin. Then, it becomes flush with my skin again lower down.

It's hard to see anything in the pictures but I can give you some advice.
(a) The red band at the neckline may make it difficult to fix this. It probably does not have seams in it so taking this area in may make the band look odd. I would try to do this under the arm so any oddness won't show.
(B&c) Lack of boning will do this, but there is something that can be done. It might be that your lady just doesn't know how. Boning can be added to the front to support the gown. You have not said what kind of undergarments you are using. If you are a C or larger cup, you may need some support for yourself. Both the gown and you need separate support. Ladies smaller than a C can often get away with not wearing a bra, but in most cases a larger cup size needs to be supported separately from the gown's needs.
(d) This could have several reasons and fixes. Adding a bra may fix this and the above. Adding a little padding to the gown to fill in the space may fix it, but some brides don't want to do that. The princess seam that runs right through the bustline can be taken in but it is a very tricky operation that may leave puckering even when done with much care.

I can't see this in the pictures, but another reason for all this may be your posture. I say in several places on my site that wedding gowns are designed for ladies to stand with straight posture. The reason is so you will look your best in the gown. Most ladies do not do this in normal life and feel it is odd that designers would purposefully make the gowns so that they have to stand in a manor that is difficult to impossible for them to maintain all through their wedding day. When I try to tell brides that the easy fix is for her to stand with better posture she will often sulk at me and complain that she just can't do that. It is a very difficult thing to alter a gown to fit a slouching body, not to mention expensive. And besides, no one looks good slouching. I can't tell from your pictures if this is part of your situation or not, but it is a common factor for many brides.

I hope some of this helps you.

Hello-

I am ordering a Pronovias gown. In the picture attached, I am in a size 10. It was on the tight side and it give me more cleavage than what I'd like. My measurements are bust 37 and waist 28.5. The size 12 that was recommended is a 37/28 and the size 14 is a 38/29. Although this was suggested, I want the dress to fully cover my bust line and felt like the 14 would allow for me to do that and to just take it in. I am normally a 32DDD and with the 12, I was afraid that it would just cover me and wouldn't leave any room to remove the cleavage that I do not want to show. Would this drastically change the look of my gown? What size do you suggest?

Trial 13 is me without a bra and Trial 12s are those with a bustier. Would you recommend wearing one?

I'm not sure what the ladies at the store are telling you, but a larger size usually won't make the neckline higher. I think you look wonderful in the 10! It's sometimes hard for brides to understand how folks are seeing them because when you look down on your own cleavage you see more than a person standing in front of you does. This style really does give you less coverage than most strapless gowns. Like I said, I think you look simply perfect, but you also have to feel good about how you look.

Ordering the 12 probably won't raise the neckline but it might let your breasts settle into the bodice lower than they are in the 10. If the cleavage is still to much, you can raise the whole bodice by taking in the waistline at the side seam a little lower than it is now. BUT - this may also push the breast flesh up a little more and create more cleavage. Am I making sense?

Another common problem with the larger sizes is that the neckline gapes above the bustline. This can be fixed at the side or princess seams, but it's not always easy. It's best to solve this problem by taking in the princess seam that runs directly over the bustline, but I doubt your design will allow that. SO - - - I would encourage you to get the 10. Did I say I love the pictures of you in the 10?

You do not need the bustier, but if it feels good do it. Many C and larger ladies have trouble fitting into a bustier well. The designers of them just don't seem to know how to accommodate the situation.

Thanks so much for your reply. I'll have to order the 12 because with the 10, I had to take short breaths and the boning was digging...very uncomfortable. I actually ordered it in a 14 yesterday, but I'll see if they can change that for me. Is there a way to minimize the cleavage? Can the alter the very top to lay down instead of my breasts rising up and gaping?

For a gapping neckline I take in the princess seams. If I remember correctly, this would be very difficult and complicated for your gown because of the way the bodice is designed, but not impossible. You will need a seamstress either very experienced or very brave to tackle such an operation. But, it might not have the result you are looking for. It will draw the fabric of the neckline closer to your body, but it will not move it higher to cover more cleavage.

About the only thing I can think of is to buy lace that matches the lace at the top of your bodice and add it to the neckline to raise it.

Hi Leanna,
I bought this dress for really cheap at J-crew to wear at my wedding
http://www.jcrew.com/catalog/product.jhtml?id=prod72366387&catId=cat90226
it is going to be a very simple wedding with a very short ceremony.
I like the dress. it actually is little long on me(which is alright) and need to do something about my tummy(tips appreciated). My biggest problem is the cleavage. I am a B cup and it kind of feels not appropriate to show that much at a wedding.
is there any way i can conceal it. I was thinking i can buy some very high quality lace, cut a little triangle and with tailors two sided tape attach it to the V..Will it look alright? Do you have any other ideas? Professional opinion, please
Thank you very much.
Orgul

What you are thinking of doing is typically called a modesty panel. You can certainly do this but do not tape it in, sew it in. You would be very embarrassed if the tape lost it's sticky in the middle of your ceremony.

This is a valid solution to your question, but personally, I think modesty panels look cheap. A short jacket would look much better. The best solution would be to buy a dress that already has a neckline that is more appropriate to your situation.

Wow!! This is such a wonderful website. Thank you so much for all your helpful advice. I came to your site after doing a Google search for "alterations shortening bodice," and I've ended up learning so much more. I only wish I had found it sooner! (Even more, I wish I lived in the Cincinnati area!)

I'd love to get your opinion on the fit of my bridal gown and what alterations you'd suggest, but I won''t take offense at all if you're too busy to answer. I'm not having a full-blown "dress nightmare." It's more that it's just not "quite right", and it would be nice to get advice from such a trustworthy source on how to best fix it.

Here's my story: I'm petite (5'4, size ranges from 0-2, with a 24" waist, 32B bust), and at the first fitting, it was decided that all that needed to be adjusted was the length. (That, and a little hunk of lace needed to be reattached, since it was hanging off the dress in the center of the bodice.) But once I got home and saw the pictures my dad took, I didn't think it looked quite right. There seems to be a little fold right below my breasts. Also, the neckline is higher than I expected. Here are a couple pictures:
http://s172.photobucket.com/albums/w20/jasonandlisa2007/? action=view&current=IMG_5318.jpg
http://s172.photobucket.com/albums/w20/jasonandlisa2007/? action=view&current=IMG_5319.jpg

When I described the fitting to a friend of mine, I mentioned how the lace on the sides brushed against my armpits. (And was a little annoying). She immediately concluded that my problem is that the bodice is too long and needs to be shortened. Since she's only 5'0", she has that problem a lot herself. And when I went back and looked at the pictures on the designer's website, it really does look like it's a much lower cut on the model:
http://s172.photobucket.com/albums/w20/jasonandlisa2007/? action=view&current=dress2.jpg http://s172.photobucket.com/albums/w20/jasonandlisa2007/? action=view&current=dress1.jpg

Now, other people have said that the biggest difference between the way the dress looks on her and the way it looks on me is that she's a lot fuller on top. So it's also been suggested to me that I get cups sewn into the dress. And that they'll make the fold go away. You mention posture as a solution to a lot of problems, but I generally have perfect posture (after breaking my back and wearing a brace for months afterwards in high school), so I don't think that's the problem here. I don't know if it'll help, but here's a third picture of me, in which I'm leaning and you can clearly see how the fabric is holding in the front:
http://s172.photobucket.com/albums/w20/jasonandlisa2007/? action=view&current=IMG_5322.jpg

And here's a pic with a lower-cut neckline, that was taken at my hair- and-makeup trial run: http://s172.photobucket.com/albums/w20/jasonandlisa2007/? action=view&current=P1010040.jpg

Sorry for sending such a long-winded email. I guess the short version is, what do you think the best approach would be for making the top of the dress fit as well as it should? Shorten the bodice? Sew in cups? Something else? Thank you so much for taking the time to read my question.

Hope you're having a wonderful weekend!

Best regards, Lisa

I would try to cup idea first. Shortening the bodice will be expensive. You do look like your posture is just fine. I do see the point about the model pictures but you can't really judge by that, they get retouched so much that you can't know what is real in a picture.

The simple answer is yes, but it's a matter of finding an Alterationist who will know how to do it nicely. This is a major design change that might end up looking really bad if the person doing it doesn't have the experience necessary.

I always advise against design changes, but if I were doing this for you I would design the cut to curve along the bustline to the beading instead of simply cutting a straight line across the top of the bustline. Anyway you make the cut will result in creating a problem with the dress falling away from your body in the cleavage area because you will be loosing the pull in that area that the halter top was designed to do. You might be able to position the spaghetti straps to provide back some of this function, but not all of it. You can also use body tape to get the neckline to not show your breasts but this too has drawbacks. You might not like the feel of the tape and your skin might be allergic to the adhesive and create non-flattering red patches.

You have other options.
1. Have the alteration done for fitting the top. This should be doable and less drastic than the design change. You did not say if you had it looked at by a seamstress.

2. You didn't say if the dress in the store was the same size as the one you ordered. If it is, you can try to ask the store to exchange the dress you have with the one you tried on in the store. They will not want to do this but they should.

As far as how much this will cost, you will have to ask that of the person you get to do it. My prices are not the same as other sewing specialists and I don't presume they should follow the way I set my prices. I would need to see you in the gown to give you a price anyway.

Came upon you as I searched for an answer to my daughter's problem. Her dress was ordered to "have room to eat and dance" and with the expectation, stated, that she planned to GAIN 5 pounds. (She is very small, too small?) Well, she actually was unable to gain the weight, but alas, when the dress arrived it seemed to fit exactly so it's a good thing she didn't gain the weight. The problem is, it is puckered in the corset bodice. It isn't too tight there, she can put her hand down. First they said it was from the beading, that all dresses would do that, but she put on the one she had originally tried on, and it didn't do it. When she leans over (like when she went to try on shoes) and then stood up, it remained very wrinkled in the bodice, the material was actually overlapping. Can this be fixed? It is a very reputable shop, and I am sure they will do everything they can, but I just need to know if it an be fixed. They wedding is only 6 weeks away, so I don't think ordering a new one is possible. They also made it a little to short, she tried on with 3 1/8 healed, stated on her card and they agree, and asked for it to the floor. As she said, so what if it gets dirty, she's never wearing it again and that is what she likes. It came in to fit 2 1/2 heals, not to the floor. She's not happy, but that she can live with. The bodice problem, no. Many thanks for your help, you are a god send to people needing this advice.

I need to see the gown on the bride to give you a good answer but my guess is that it might need more boning.

As for the hem, gowns should never touch the floor. It's a tripping hazard. A gown should be 1" up from the floor for comfortable walking. Brides should be able to feel confident when they walk and not have to be bothered by the feeling that they either have to grab the gown front with their hands to hold it up, or that it is brushing their toes and giving them an unstable feeling. It sounds to me like her hem is correct. If she wants it to touch the floor for her pictures all she has to do is bend her knees a tiny bit when the picture is taken. The rest of the day she will have walking ease with it being a little bit off the floor.

That said, the bride is the decider here. If she wants her gown to touch the floor I do it that way.

Dear Leanna,

I have read your entire website and I want to thank you for sharing such a wealth of information! If only I lived closer to you so I could hire you to work on my dress.

I have an Allure style 8308, which features an elaborate cut lace overlay (I think it's stitched onto organza?) with a long train. Here are some pictures, but they don't really do justice to the lace:

A close up of the lace on the train:
http://www.geocities.com/thebridaldress/DSCF0432.jpg

And the bodice:
http://www.geocities.com/thebridaldress/DSCF0435.jpg (Note: the real dress doesn't wrinkle like that in the middle. I'm clipped into a bigger size.)

When the dress arrived, the bodice fit me PERFECTLY. The bottom, however, was very big, which confuses me because I'm usually a two on top and a six or eight on the bottom in street sizes, and this is a size eight in "bridal dress" size. On the model, the dress seems to be more form-fitting around her hips and bottom, and only flare out mid thigh. My dress lies in folds around my hips. Could they have made a mistake?

It's also several inches too long -- even in really high heels (which I really wouldn't want to wear to my wedding -- I'm not a super-high heel kind of gal) I'm going to need hemming. This concerns me because the scalloped hem makes me think this is going to be a major undertaking -- that I will have to take apart the dress at the horizontal hip seam/band and lift it from there. And since the skirt already seems too full, will that make it even fuller? How can you "take in" such ornate lace? I'm also concerned that this will double the cost of the dress. (I was quoted $500 for shortening alone).

Finally, if all this works out, how would you recommend bustling a dress like this? I bought it because I was so in love with the lace, so I would want to show it as much as possible, but I'm worried that an "outside" bustle might tear the delicate fabric?

I would be so grateful for any advice you have to offer. Thank you so much for your website. It's been a real education.

~Diana

It's not a good idea to go by the model pictures. You don't know how they pinned her into the dress or touched them up after the photo session. It shouldn't be difficult to take in the hip area if that's what you need.

In the http://www.geocities.com/thebridaldress/DSCF0432.jpg picture you can see a band that separates the scalloping bottom lace from the skirt lace pattern. I would do the ham by moving the scalloping lace up by this band. I suspect that when the gown is the correct length, the folding at the hips will smooth out because the whole skirt can drop down.

The Bustling I do has stays under each point to support the fabric. I've never had a bride report that her delicate lace tore in one of my bustles. I can't say how your people will bustle the gown, but I'm sure they have some understanding of the situation with the lace. Polyester Organza is a rather strong fabric though it is shear. You will probably need what I call a Pick-up bustle with the shape of the train. Though this is usually done with one point, it can be done with 2 close together points to support the lace better.

Hi Leanna, your website is very informative and I am hoping you can advise me. My dress is 2 piece, strapless and the bodice is beaded and fastens with a zip at the back. It fits perfectly but makes my bust look very saggy. It is boned under each bust from the waist upwards, but the boning stops underneath the bust. There is then one piece of boning in the middle that goes from the waist all the way up to the top.

Not only does it make my bust look saggy, but there is a horizontal crease running along under my bust. If I pull tightly on it this (either upwards or downwards) it disappears.

The seamstress says it is because the boning ends under the bust and there is nothing she can do. Have you ever come across anything like this before and can you suggest anything? I am really disappointed as the dress in every other way is perfect.

Your seamstress is correct that part of the problem is the boning stops below the bust. It is supposed to continue to the waist. Boning has to have something to push against to do it's job. It can't support if it stops below the bust because there is nothing there it can push against. Your seamstress is incorrect that there is nothing that can be done, she just doesn't know what to do or how to do it.

I have worked on gowns like this many times and find that adding boning to the area from the neckline to the waist will help to fix the problem. Often, it needs to go past the waist to avoid a buckling at the waist. Sometimes I put it on the lining layer and sometimes on the interfacing or even the fashion fabric layer. It depends on what I determine to be best for the gown I'm working on. Not all gowns are constructed the same way so I can't tell you exactly how to do this, but I can tell you it can be done and will help fix the problem.

The other thing the bride needs to do is stand with correct posture. The bride's power to help her gown look perfect by using correct posture is immense. You have probably read what I have to say on this subject on the site. I have many references to it in many places. It's often not talked about because it's not politically correct to tell a bride she is slouching, but it is so very important to get a correct fit.

I hope this helps your situation,

Hi, Leanna,
My daughter bought a lovely wedding dress for her upcoming 5/27 wedding from a store selling used bridal gowns. We liked the idea of reusing gowns (environmentally friendly) and of course, it was a lot cheaper. The owner had been in business a long time and also did the alterations. All well and good.

However, we bought the dress in December. It needed the bodice taken in and a bustle added. When my daughter went for the second fitting in March, the owner had decided to retire in April. My daughter told her she thought the bodice was still a bit loose but the owner said it was fine. She said she would finish the bustle and iron the dress before her retirement. However, when my daughter went to pick it up, the owner said she should not try it on because it had been pressed and would wrinkle. Not knowing any better, my daughter took it home.

I went for a visit last weekend and we decided to try it on because she wanted to see how the jewelry looked and how the bustle worked.
Problem 1: It's a dress with skinny straps that can be worn with the dress or tucked in. My daughter wants to wear it strapless. We got a corset bra as it still seemed a little loose and that helped a lot. However, when my daughter shrugs her shoulders, she feels as if she will come out of the top of the dress. There's also a wrinkle line across the front under the bust when she wears it without the straps - it disappears when the straps are worn up. What sort of fabric glue or tape can we get to make her feel more secure and perhaps take care of the wrinkle? Where do we get it?

Problem 2: We didn't know about different types of bustles. The one that the owner put in is a single button on the center back seam about six inches below the waist and there are three loops to hook it up (one center and one on each side). When we did it up, we didn't like the effect at all - you just see three big folds. However, when I hold it up at waist height, the effect is much better - there is more room for the fabric to drape gracefully. I'm thinking of getting your DVD so I can see how to redo it right. Can I get it in time? Is there anyway to call you to expedite that?

Thank you so much for your website - very, very helpful. I only wish I had found it earlier! I really think we will be okay if I can get some glue or tape for the top of the dress and figure out how to change the bustle. I would be happy to go to another seamstress, but I don't think there is time at this point. If I saw the DVD, I think I could redo the bustle myself - I will be glad to pay extra for faster shipping. Thanks so much, Jean Myers

Tape or glue won't help much for the neckline. Strapless gowns need to be supported from the waist and held up with boning. Trying to support it from the top is a loosing battle. You can add more boning to the front seams of the bodice. This is a common problem for D cup or larger ladies. The gown is not designed to support. It is also not designed to allow a bride to shrug her shoulders. The gown will look best when you use good posture. I really do think designers do this on purpose so a bride has to stand with good posture so she will look her best for the pictures. It's not something you can possibly do all day long, so think of it the most when you are taking the pictures. If the gown is properly supported with boning, she will not fall out of the gown even if she feels that way. If she has never worn a strapless gown before she needs to get used to this feeling.

You mentioned that she felt the top was too big. I often get this from brides who have never worn strapless gowns. It really needs to be a tiny bit on the loose side at the top neckline so you can breathe. I really hate the look you get when you try to make the top tight. It creates bags of flesh at the sides of the arms that is not lovely. It can even create these bags (sometimes known as "back fat") at the neckline in the back. The top of the gown should lay softly on the neckline, not cutting in or gaping when the bride stands with good posture.

I'm having trouble visualizing your bustle situation. I can't say if the DVD will answer your question. Can you send me a picture of her in the gown?

Hi, Leanna,
Thank you so much for your response. From what you say, I think the problem may be that this gown was made with tiny straps that are supposed to be able to be tucked in to wear it strapless, but the top does not have boning, if I remember right. So my daughter may have to decide between feeling really secure with the straps up or tucking them in and having to be much more careful about how she moves in the dress.
I did attach a few pictures of her in the gown to my first e-mail, but I will resend them in case you didn't get them the first time.
Thanks again for being so helpful :) Jean

I see the problem now - The waist seam is an empire. Typically they do not put boning in these correctly. If it's there at all it comes to just below the breast and stops. This is absolutely no help to keep the bodice up. You either need to add boning to the front and back princess and side seamlines, from the neckline to her natural waist - or she needs to wear the straps.

In a pinch, you can sew the top of her corset bra to the neckline of the gown. This will act like what they should have designed into this gown in the first place and hold it up.

Hello Leanna,

I have purchased a beautiful gown. All it needs is a slight hem, bustling, the cap sleeves shortened - and the torso is a bit too long for my body. It bunches up under my arms. There is beading under the arms, and it's a few layers thick. Is it complicated/expensive to have the armhole lowered (I don't mind if the beading under the arms is taken off)? It would only need to be done so for 1/4-1/2 an inch.

Sincerely, Amanda

It's really hard to answer this question without seeing the dress. For some gowns this might be not a big deal, but for most I have worked on this year it would be a great pain. If it makes it easier, loosing the beading under the arm might not be a bad thing. I have had several brides not like beads there where they rub on your arm.

Hello,

I just purchased a dress from a bridal shop that I'm a bit weary about. Please refer to link:
http://billlevkoff.com/collections/index.asp?dress=964
I'm actually a bride not a bridesmaid. I purchased this dress (white on white) because I'm getting married in Maui next year and I did not want anything too fancy for a beach ceremony. However, the sample size I tried on in the store was ridiculously big. It was an 8 and according to the saleswoman, that's the size my measurements fell under. I have a very large chest (34DD) and a petite frame. This dress will need to be taken in at least two inches up top to adequately support my chest. Do you recommend boning for the dress to help support my chest or do you think I will be fine with alterations and sticky tape?

Yours Truly, Tiffany

This gown should come with boning already in it because it's strapless. You may like to add more, but that should not be necessary. You will need a bra to give you enough support. The dress should only support itself, not you. Some ladies who are a C cup or smaller can get away with the boning that the dress offers for support for they need little, but anyone larger than that needs to plan on the extra support a bra will give.

The bridal store has to order for the largest measurement and that's probably your bust. The parts that are too big get taken in. Since the dress is simple you should not have any problems getting this altered.

Hi, and HELP! I found your site while searching the internet for some ideas on padding the bustline of my wedding dress. I started reading your posts and the very first one is EXACTLY what I need for my other problem with my dress. I bought my dress off the rack last November (it fit perfectly and didn't need any alterations), but have since gained 5 pounds that just won't go away. Our wedding is just over 2 months away and I'm panicking! I absolutely LOVE your idea of lacing up the back like a corset. I am a sewer myself and can do this, however, I do have a question about the bust padding. My dress is backless, so obviously, I won't be able to wear a bra. My problem is that I am rather flat chested and do not fill out the top of the dress. When I tried on the dress at the bridal salon, I did not realize this was a problem because I was wearing a rather heavily padded bra. I tried sewing some pads in the bust, but it looked ridiculous. What do you normally do in this situation?

I get my pads from Banasch's Wholesale by the dozen. They have the normal ones that are slightly padded and the push-up type. You should be able to get pads from your local fabric store one pair at a time. If you can't find any you can try raglan style shoulder pads. They can be cut down to fit your space if they are too long or wide.

Hello,

I had my strapless gown fitted and when I am standing up, it feels fine. After two fittings the seamstress and the salesperson never told me to SIT in the dress however, and I never thought of it. It has boning up the sides and a natural waist. When I sit, I am in pain! It seems to ride up too high and squeezes the daylights out of me. I am not a big girl, am 5' 7" and 130 lbs. but its very uncomfortable. Is there anything that they can do that would help? I want to look beautiful but I don't want to suffer all night when I sit, or have to stand up all night to be comfortable...!! Would the corset back idea that you had used on other brides work for this dress?

We don't routinely have brides sit in their dresses. I have a couch in my dressing room. Brides often sit on it after they have put on their dresses to more easily put on their shoes. I have not had a bride discover that her dress feels uncomfortable while doing this.

Can you give me more details? You said there is boning in the sides - does that mean it is pinching you under the arms when you sit?

No, it seems to push everything up and makes me feel like I can't breathe...you know when they talk about the old victorian corsets and that the women would pass out? Well, it's pretty near that feeling...ugh....We did a very small wedding already where I wore the dress, just with 3 of our closest friends but we are planning to have a second ceremony where we invite our kids and all the family and all of our friends this summer and I am dreading wearing the dress....I have a photo I can send you if it will help, but it doesn't look bad or anything...When I sat in the limo, I felt like the whole bodice of the dress was riding UP and squeezing me way too tight.....I don't know any other way to describe it....not pinching under the arms, and I am not fat under there or really anywhere, its just tight....and UNCOMFORTABLE!!

Thanks in advance for any help or ideas you can give me! Nancy

If you are uncomfortable to the point of tears don't wear the boned dress. There's nothing wrong with wearing the original one. It was the one you wore for the real ceremony and that makes it special.

I have recently bought a boned corset and am getting used to wearing it. It does have the metal boning strips. By nature, they do ride up when you sit down. There is nothing you can do about it but get used to it. I can well imagine that is why they went out of style.

Most wedding gowns are not boned that severely though and they don't usually ride up. Also, the boning is usually plastic that has some give to it. If the gown does have the multiple strips like in historical corsets and they are of metal, you can replace them with the plastic kind and even remove some. The important seams that do need to have the boning are the princess seams, both front and back, and the side seams. Any extra strips in between these can be removed.

I purchased my gown last summer, broke my ankle in the fall, and now I’ve gained a LOT of weight from sitting around waiting for my ankle to heal! I used to be a runner and continued to eat that way even when I was stuck on the couch, so all those carbs went to my waist.

My wedding is in August and my foot will finally be healed, but no running again until May or June. I don’t want to be unhealthy about losing the weight and starve myself, and I am now 3” bigger in my waist and my dress no longer fits.

It’s an Angelina Faccenda, natural silk, and my bridal shop claims it is absolutely impossible to let out at all. I’m sure there are exceptions, but… I want to prepare for the worst. Have people ever added a corset tie-up back to a dress, and removed the buttons? Leaving space between each side seems like it would give me the extra room and fit me again I would imagine…

What do you think? How much does that generally cost, or what would you guess that would cost? Do you think it would work?

I just did exactly what you are describing a few weeks ago for a pregnant bride. It worked very well and she was very pleased.

Awesome… maybe I can have that done too. I know it would vary with every dress, every seamstress, and every situation, but what did you charge to do that? I just want to get a rough idea... J

This dress was $60.00, plus materials. Since it was the first time I had done this and a bit of a learning experience for me, I did not charge her what I will in the future. It will be more like $80 or $90, plus materials.

This alteration was actually the bride's idea. Before this experience I would gusset the side seams. That's an often difficult task that can end up being quite expensive. One dress I did was over $200. I wish I had thought of the lacing thing long ago. It's such a neat solution and very in style right now.

For the dress in the picture I used bias tape on the inside to cover the loop backs so it would not be scratchy for the bride's back. Something you might like to mention to whoever ends up sewing this for you.

Hi,
I have just found your wonderful and informative website. I am merely a friend of the bride, but I do sew. I went with her for her 5th fitting. THe wedding is now 10 days away and the dress doesn't fit. I'm interested in your opinion on this.

This girl is very petite (probably a zero in regular clothing) but has implants. She is quite full busted for a tiny girl. She told the store owner and salespeople that while she might want cleavage at other times, she wanted to be modest and covered at her wedding. The store owner told her that the strapless gown she had picked could be ordered with a bigger cup size and was ordered in a size 6. When it came in, at the initial fitting, the dress was huge, but her breasts did fit into the cups of the corset bodice. All seams are boned. After the initial alteration (in which no measuring was done, no pinning...I don't know if this is usual but none was done) she could not even zip the dress. The seamstress said "oh, I forgot you had large breasts." In addition, she was told after this that the designer of this dress does NOT offer cup sizes as some of them do.

The problem now is that the dress has been let back out, the bust seams adjusted and her breasts are popping out. THe bodice is just too short to pull up and cover her bustline. The only suggestion I can see (due to the beading on the dress-no sash to cover a seam with) is to take the size 10 bodice from the sample and fit it to her bust, then attach it to the skirt of the gown. Is this a realistic possibility? This girl has so many other details she is stressing over. I hate for this to be another one--and it's a big one for sure! Any enlightenment you can give would be great. Is it just an impossibility to fit an implanted bustline with a strapless sweetheart neckline?

Thanks so much, Debbie

Your suggestion of altering the size 10 bodice is a workable one but I doubt you can get them to do it. It will be a lot of work and I'm even doubtful if she has the knowledge to do it.

It's not usual to have no pinning. It's hard to pin when seams are boned but I do it anyway.

I'm one of those people that just can't think anything is impossible, there are just options that you may not like to take. If the alterations were done without cutting the seams as it should have been, it must be fixable without starting over with another bodice. Do you have pictures of her in the dress you can send me?

Hi Leanna,
Thank you so much for your quick response!! I spoke to the bride and her mother this afternoon after they met with the owner of the bridal salon. The owner looked at the dress on the girl and agreed that it was "absolutely unacceptable". They did not want to take the size 10 bodice to use so the bride has picked out another dress from the floor samples. They are going to have it cleaned and then alter it. I didn't get to see it on her so I don't know how much alteration it might need but I do know that she said she is covered adequately. I wish I had pictures to send as I am now interested to see what you would have suggested. (Its the sewist in me I guess). I hope the bridal salon is willing to credit them for the original dress which they seemingly messed up. Don't know about that yet but they did finally and reluctantly give them a nice break on the price of the new sample dress. I do know this....I have two daughters to go thru this with at some point in the future and I am bookmarking your website to remember you by when my time comes to go through this! Where are you located? Anywhere near central Florida? Thanks again for your answer and willingness to advise!!

Giggles, no, I'm in Cincinnati Ohio - A bit far from Florida.

Glad to hear things will work out for her and that the store is doing the right thing. I get so many letters about sad situations. It's very encouraging to know that there are some good bridal salons out there!

I'd need to see the gown on you to tell exactly. In the picture it fits the model well. I need to see where it is fitting wrong to determine where the alteration will be done in the top. It can be done at the sides, back or from the Princess seams. Each place has different things that need to be done to get the alteration right and the boning at each place is going to have to be adjusted. It can cost anywhere from $40 not $80 depending on all these things.

I’m a size 16, and the problem I’m having is the let say… “extra skin” (J) is bulging out from my under arms. I know… sounds attractive doesn’t it!! Not to mention, I am big busted. Sorry. Does that give you a better idea?

I totally misunderstood you! Yes, it is doing that because it is too tight. Usually there is some room in the side seams to let out a little. You don't need much to make the situation better. But I think it will still be no less than $40 for the alteration.

Hi, your site is really great and helpful! I do have a question actually. I am very small chested and when I got measured for my dress the charts said the bust would put me in size 4, but the waist in size 10! Now I tried the 10 on in the store and it was very big on me. The store said they feel most comfortable ordering the 10 though and that they can take it in in the bust area. I'm just wondering if that's really true that they can take in the bust that far without ruining it. It's a strapless sweetheart dress.
Thanks! Julie

Most anything can be taken in. It may cost you more than you are wanting to pay, but it can be done. You're implied question of will it look good depends on the skills of your alteration specialist.

They are wanting to order the 10 because they do not want the opposite problem of it coming in too small. That's a problem you really DO NOT want.

Your site is wonderful. I had no idea what to expect but now it is much clearer.

I had a question for you. My gown has a corset and an attached full skirt. The corset however is a little loose (I'm worried I'm going to fall out) and I'm not sure what the best thing to do would be. The top half of the back of the corset has the lacing showing, so I really want it to not be tied as tight as it can be. Would it be better to have the loops for the lacing taken under the sides of the corset edges or to have the corset altered? The corset has some beading on it, but I would not be crushed if it overlapped a little.

Thank you, Amy

For any bodice fitting issue I look at the side seams first. If I can solve the problem by taking in or letting out the side seams, it's best for the dress' symmetry. I very much agree with your idea that you should not simply pull the lacing tighter. That would totally close the lacing gap and destroy the design element.

I'm sure that the side seams can be taken in, but if for some reason they are not (like ruining the beading design) or your seamstress thinks it easier to take in the lacing seams, that is an ok solution too.

I was reading all of your wonderful advice and I thought I’d write to you with my own question. I recently had a fitting for my wedding gown. It is a strapless A-line. My problem is that I feel it doesn’t fit me properly in the bodice. It makes my breasts appear pointy and I’d rather them be naturally rounded. The dress is flush with my skin at the top, then it “peaks” right over the breasts and there is actual space there where it does not touch my skin. Then, it becomes flush with my skin again lower down.

In addition to me not liking the look of it, I also do not like the way it feels because it doesn’t feel like it’s conforming to my body.

The dress is plenty tight, there’s no room to take it in on the sides, it’s just this strange gap right over the breasts. I thought it maybe had something to do with the boning being too stiff and poking out, but the seamstress said that if she took it out, the dress would sag.

It sounds like the breast darts are too big. Darts are funny things. If you take them IN they actually make the space for the breast larger and pointier instead of smaller. It's tricky to let them out though and I am sure you need the seam sewn in an arch, not a straight line, so you will get a more rounded shape for the breast to fit into. You said the sides fit. This may change after the darts are resewn and need to be taken in.

It's really hard to guess what is wrong without seeing you in the dress. I may be totally wrong, but see what your seamstress thinks about this idea.

Hi, My name is Katie Long, and I live in Norfolk, VA. I’m getting married this year on November 18, and I still have not ordered my gown yet. But I do have one in mind, but am concerned about the alterations I want to be done to it….your website seems very knowledgeable so I wanted to email you to ask your opinion.

I found this dress that is pretty inexpensive (around $600), that is a two piece. It is a mimic of another dress that’s around $2500 that I fell in love with. Here’s the $600something: http://www.morilee.com/DressDetail.aspx?C=1&D=2808&P=1

I love how it fits, when I put it on, the waist fits and the only alteration will need to be the hem and most likely the curved seams coming from the bottom of the strap down to the waistline. (taken in about 1/2in.) The problem is that I want to replace the lace on the bodice. The lace looks really cheap, and I have gone to the fabric store and picked out an affordable alternative lace, with a medium amount of beading on it. The factory bodice lace is beadless – and sewn into every seam, and then afterward, they’ve hand-sewn small seed beads into the flowers in the lace that is stitched through the lace layer, and loops through the top satin layer Only of the bodice.

Being sort of crafty, but not nearly someone who can perform alterations, I think that taking off the top lace layer (including the beading they’ve added) and placing my chosen lace onto the bodice, then reassembling it how it was is totally possible. The woman whose shop I was in (small shop, only location) was saying that my lace would have to be hand sewn onto the bodice because the machine won’t do well with the beading etc and that it’s really tedious and etc etc. It seems to me you could just un-seam the all columns of the bodice, cut the new lace by the pattern the old lace was in, and replace it and sew it back up.

What would you do in this situation? You seem really experienced and honest and up front. The woman said that with the dress (at around 600), hemming, and the change I want, I’d be looking at $1000 when alls said and done. So, $400 alteration basically because it starts turning into custom work pretty much – she used to do strictly custom but has moved away from it. And I have not seen any of her custom work so I’m not able to gauge her skill level. But the lace I want to use is nice and wide@ 36”, and the pattern is not linear/does not require it to be laid a certain way. The scallop edge at the waistline would be very easy to do if all pieces were cut from the side of the lace fabric right?

I have searched high and low and online for about a month now and nothing else has this type of skirt with a halter that is low except $1200 dresses etc which I’m trying not to spend.

It’s either do these changes to this dress or bite it and spend $1740 before alteration on a couture gown I can get a deal on in NC.

Please give me your professional honest opinion, as someone who has been doing this a long time; something makes me think I’m not the first nor last bride ever to want to do this~! J

Thank you so much for even reading this far – any info you can give me is worth so much!

You have everything very well thought out and you have communicated with your sewing professional well. Her pricing for this type of work is very reasonable and she sounds competent. I did not see a price for the lace you will be purchasing. Pre-beaded lace is usually rather expensive. Once you factor that in it could raise your estimate considerably.

It comes down to how you envision the gown with the new lace. Some brides can't imagine these things well. Sounds like you can.

I would not bother opening all the seams. I would simply cut the original lace off neatly as close to the seam as possible, taking care to not cut the underfabric. Once all off, I would simply hand sew on the new lace, applique style, over the original seams. This will cover any tiny bits of old lace that might remain and make a very nice, seamless look. Done carefully, this can be very beautiful.

I wish you the Best!

Hi

I've got a real problem with my wedding dress and wonder if you've got any advice. My dress has arrived in the shop and I went to try it on last week, but bizarrely it's too short in the torso for me i.e. when the waist of the dress sits on my waist, the top of the dress is about 3/4 of an inch below my bust. It's really uncomfortable, looks like it's falling down and as it is a strapless dress I also feel like it's constantly falling down !

I was nervous about having a strapless dress anyway and the shop assistant assured both me and my parents numerous times that once the dress fits around the waist it would be totally secure and couldn't possibly slip down. She didn't mention anything about it being even remotely low cut. I'm a tall size 8/10 and their stock dress was a 16 or 18 I think and I didn't noticed any problem in the torso length on it at all. The back has also turned out to be really low cut, which I don't like and I think it adds to the lack of support at the front.

I don't know what to do!!

When I hold the dress up where I need it to be around the bust, the waist is too high and can't support the weight of the dress (its pretty heavy). In fact at that height the waist cuts into my ribs and I can hardly breathe.

I've got 8 weeks to go until my wedding and I don't really know how to move forward with this. I can't afford to buy another dress. Would I be able to get a refund for this kind of problem ?

Thanks !
Helen

PS if anything i've lost weight since buying it, not gained any - so I can't imagine what the problem is!

If you took the dress from the store and it is paid for they will not be willing to return it and give you a refund. I can see how the 4 size difference between you and the stock dress might have created this problem, but it should not have happened. This dress should be fitting you wonderfully.

Did you plan to have the store do your alterations? What the lady told you so far is true. Strapless dresses are supported from the waist and it is often an odd feeling to a bride if she has never worn one before. You do have a naked feeling in the neck area. Many brides ask me to tighten it at the top to hold it up and I have to explain that it doesn't work that way with a strapless. It really needs to fit on your neckline as if it is just resting on your skin. To tighten it creates ugly bulges near the arms and at the top edge in the back. Many brides feel that they are showing too much cleavage because when they look down they see more than when a person standing in front looking at them sees.

I can't tell if this is what you are feeling or if the dress is too short in the bust length. Maybe you are feeling uncomfortable because you are not used to the way a strapless bodice feels and when you look at it you see way more at your neck than you are comfortable with.

Let me ask you a few things -
When the dress is on and the waist of the dress is at your waist, does your breast fit into the curve of the bodice where it is supposed to? Or, in order to have the breast curve sit correctly for your curve, do you have to push up the bodice? I'm trying to figure out if the problem is between the waist and the breastline or if it is above the breast, or below the waistline. Am I making sense?

There are various things that can be done depending on exactly where the the problem is.

Thanks for your email.

I had to pay for the dress in full when I placed the order but I've not taken it from the shop yet as I'm not happy with it. Yes, I had been
planning on having the fitter from the shop do the alterations. I met her the day I tried on the dress and she tried to pin me in so that the dress was firmer around the waist, but I still didn't feel that it fitted me no matter how tightly she pinned it because it was so low at the top.

When the waist of the dress is sitting properly on my waist, the curve of my breast is above the curve of the dress, so for my breasts to sit properly and comfortably against the curve of the dress I have to push the dress up. However, when I do this the zip no longer closes at the back (and of course the waist is out of position and the waistline presses on my ribs uncomfortably).

It is true that I'm not used to wearing strapless dresses, but the reason I felt comfortable buying this one was because the sample dress I tried on did feel very snug and well supported when I was pinned into it and I understood what the saleswoman was saying. Somehow this dress just doesn't feel secure as that one did. I think part of the problem is that the back of this one has turned out to be very low cut. When I tried on the sample dress that was far too big for me it covered much more of my back and really held me into the dress. Without that support the dress really does hang exclusively on the waist. That leaves me with the real problem that I've outlined above. I had no idea that the back was so lowcut because the sample dress was so big that when it was pinned in I didn't realize it wouldn't be the same. Maybe that's naive, but I usually try on clothes in my size, so I'm not used to guessing what they might look like !

When I push the dress up so that my breasts are correctly positioned against the curves of the dress I feel quite happy with the amount of flesh exposed i.e. I feel that I've got a reasonable amount of coverage. It is also a lot more comfortable because the tight line of the top of the dress no longer bites into the softer flesh of my breast, rather it is against my chest. So, if this problem can be resolved then I think I will feel pretty happy with the dress. I've already had a bolero made, so I can wear that in the evening if I do feel overexposed anyway.

I do hope you can suggest something as I'm feeling really panicky about being stuck with a £1000 dress that I can't wear on my wedding day!

Thanks !

It sounds like you needed one size larger and you are long waisted too. Bridal sales people are not trained to notice these things. Neither are you so don't blame yourself.

I would let the seams out so the dress zips when it is set where you feel most comfortable. There should be plenty in the seams for this.

Next something has to be inset into the waist seam to raise the bodice to that comfortable point. I suggest not trying to match the fabric of the dress, but choose something different and design a cummerbund type inset either gathered, pleated or anything you like - open the waist seem and insert this piece to extend the bodice to where the waist seam should have been. You may need to cut off a little more length of the bodice to get this to look natural. You can even drop the waist seam a little and let the newly designed inset sit a small way down the hip curve. I'm a lousy sketch artist, but see attachment.

If you don't like this idea I'll try to come up with something else, but it's really hard not being able to see you in the dress.

Thanks for this. It's helpful and confirms what I was thinking about the size too.

The dress actually already has a sash around the waist, so it might be possible to make that a bit wider and insert material at the waist. I can't see any other way around it. I've got an appointment with a fitter at the shop today, so I'll see if she has any ideas about how to do this.

I've attached a photo of me wearing the stock dress (the big size), which I took when I placed the order for you to see out of interest. If you have any other ideas then it would be great to hear them in case we can't manage the insert.

Many thanks for giving this some thought !

I was assuming that there was a waistline seam. The pictures looks like there might not be. If there is no seam under the ribbon than all you need to do is take in the waist area (which is lower than the waist on the dress) and add boning to the seams inside to force the dress up.

There is a waist seam under the sash, but the fitter I saw doesn't think she can insert material and if she's not confident then I'd rather not try it. We've ended up having to add straps and just have the waist hang an inch above my real waist. It doesn't look great, but I'm not in a position to buy a whole new dress.

I'm in the UK, so I'm afraid that I can't come over and see if you can help me :(

Thanks for the advice anyway!

Helen

If she's not confident than it's better she not try it. Adding straps is a great solution. You will feel a bit odd but it will look just fine.

I wish you all the best!

Hi Leanna,

I have been searching for that perfect bridal gown that makes me glow; I vision a soft satin strapless gown, plenty of beading and embroidery along bodice and hem, with a dropped waist to accentuate my waist line. Well I found the gown I love but it is an A-line dress. Am I crazy, or can a larger size dress be ordered and then cut and re-sown with a dropped basque waistline? (I think basque means the 'v' in the waist, am I correct?) Please guide me with your expertise!! Thank you so much!!

Shannon

This would be very expensive and I'd need to see the gown to tell you if it can even be done. I'd recommend you get a gown that already has the waistline you want. What you are asking for is a design change. I can usually make just about any change needed for fit, but changing design is very different. If there is not enough fabric in the right places under the gown to make the changes you want, I have to think up creative ways to make it happen, and that can be very time consuming and therefore get very costly.

I just tried on my wedding dress for the first time which I ordered a stock size. It’s a halter neck satin dress with a heavily beaded lacing on top. My bust does not fill it out and the boning that covers the bust area is denting and puckering as it’s not being filled out. I do not like the look of the boning on top and the dressmaker has said that we can take out one set of boning on top and then take it in a bit around the bust line which will give it a much smoother look. She also said that because the dress is halter the bones aren’t holding the dress in so this shouldn’t be a problem. I am just worried about losing the nice shape that the dress gives? Can you please let me know if taking out bones will cause a huge problem from your experience?

Boning is usually used to support a strapless gown, holding it up. Since you have halter straps, I don't see that you need the boning. Taking it out will not hurt the dress and if you decide that you are loosing shape it can be put back in, or you can try a different type of boning that might not create the denting you don't like.

I hope this helps,

Hi Leanna,

I live in Ireland and bought my dress from an American store. I was responsible for getting measured and ordering the correct size myself using a sizing chart. I ordered the size that fitted my waist but was big for my bust and hips. Now that I have the dress it is *very* big on the bust and I am kicking myself for not ordering a size smaller, I think it would have fitted. I have booked a lady to do my alterations but am worried that taking in the dress so much on the bust will ruin the dress, it is at least 2 or 3 cup sizes to big for me.

Have you had to do this a lot and is taking in the bust so much usually successful ?

Any small bit of advice to put my mind at rest would be appreciated....

Thanks, Siobhan

I try to take strapless gowns in at the side seams if I can. You can take in a good 4 inches that way before the lines start to distort and even at 6 inches, most people wouldn't notice anything has been changed. You can also add a little padding to the bust to smooth out any distortions.

Strapless gowns are not that hard to get fitted well in the bust area. You don't have to worry about arm holes and how the sleeve has to be fitted back into the bodice.

I'm sure your seamstress will make you look lovely!

My daughter just purchased her wedding gown (December for wedding in May )and needs alterations in the bodice and the hem. I do not live in the same city as she, so will not be able to accompany her to fittings with an alterations seamstress. The bridal store does not do alterations but gave her a brochure with referrals for seamstresses in her area. I have advised her to contact them immediately for an initial consultation.
I am concerned about how the bodice will be altered to make it lay correctly at the neckline. The neckline is wide, curving down a bit at the center front. It is sleeveless and about an inch wide at the shoulders. Satin bodice with crystal beading. Laces down the back bodice with flat satin "laces" Skirt is organza over a lining with a short train. there is a band of organza that covers the waist seam, lies in folds and crisscrosses in the front. She tried it on originally with a boned corset. The cups of the corset showed above the neckline a bit and the boning showed through the dress. She she tried it on again without a bra. The bodice adjusts some because of the lacing, but the neckline gaps and I am concerned about it being altered correctly so as to lie close to the body. Also what do we do about a bra/undergarment? Sewn in? Another style of corset? I don't want it to be too revealing! Also she needs something to smooth her like the corset did.
I sew, but would not attempt this for anything - no experience with this type of garment.
Thank you for this website! Such helpful information.
Jan in Missouri

I can't give you much good advice without seeing her in the gown, but I can try to give you a few general ideas.

Most sleeveless or off the shoulder gowns have boning and many layers of fabric in them. You do not have to wear a bra with these unless your bust needs the support. If you are concerned about modesty you can sew in cups.

Sometimes a neckline will gap because the bride is not standing with proper posture. Many young women who have never worn such a formal gown don't realize that you have to stand tall for them to fit right. I tell brides to think about squeezing your shoulder blades in the back and setting your shoulders down. It's not like you are sticking out your chest out like a soldier, but squeezing the blades sets the chest at a better angle to fill out the neckline.

It sounds like she really wants the corset. You can sew the top of the corset to the underside of the neckline so it won't peek out.

Lastly, I really think choosing an independent sewing professional is much better than going with the bridal store lady. Now, I used to be "the bridal store lady" so it's tough to judge, but generally, the bridal store lady is going to be more concerned with what the store wants her to be, not what you want. Call several ladies on that list and ask lots of questions. Most will not want to see your daughter until the gown is in. They do not have time for consultations, but they should be willing to talk to you on the phone and answer your questions with patience.

It's hard for moms who are not in the same town. I encourage brides to bring a friend with a camera so pictures of the fitting can be e-mailed to mom. It's not the same as being there, but you can at least see that it's going well or not.

Thank you so much. I feel like I have a better grasp of how to go about this part of the preparation.
My daughter has her gown. What I called a consultation would actually be the first visit to the alterations person for her to advise what needs to be done to the dress.
Thanks again for your help. I am so glad I happened onto your website!

Oh, I totally misunderstood. When someone says they bought a gown it usually means they ordered a gown that will come on a later date. If you already have the gown it might be a good idea to get in for a meeting with a seamstress - or two. I normally don't want to start work on a gown earlier than 8 weeks before the wedding date. Bride's bodies can't change to drastically much in 8 weeks. Whether they are dieting or not, often the stress of wedding plans can result in weight loss or gain. I don't mind meeting with brides sooner than 8 weeks if they have special concerns, but I will then make a date for a first fitting at 8 weeks.

Hi Leanna. I love your website and have learned a lot from it. Thank you!

I have a question about alterations to the bodice area of a dress. I love a dress I tried on, but am afraid to buy it because I think it might not be able to be altered to fit me properly.

The dress is a strapless mermaid. The part that covers the breast area is covered in lace. The rest of the dress is satin. A seam separates the lace portion from the rest of the dress.

The dress fits except for just under the breast area where it crinkles and sags, and looks as if my upper body is too short for the dress. Everything (bust, waist, hips) fits width-wise. It's the length that is off. It looks like about 1/8" could be removed from just below the bustline area and above the waistline. It's as if the the part of the dress between the waistline and under the bustline is too long.

Can this sort of problem be fixed? The saleswoman told me that my bustline is too long for the bodice, and that going up a size will not fix the problem because the bodice will not be longer in the larger size.

Thanks for your help and thanks again for your website

I think this can be fixed, but it's hard to judge without seeing the dress on you. Have you had trouble with things being long waisted in the past?

The sales lady is wrong - they usually are. A larger size will give you a tiny bit longer bodice. But it probably won't be any better. It sounds like you need a shorter bodice, not a longer one. This can be altered, but it may not be an easy process depending on how the bodice is constructed on the inside. It can be very expensive to make the change.

Are you wearing a bra? Maybe your breasts need support and then the dress will look better.

Most bridal gowns now-a-days are designed so that you have to stand up very straight in them for them to not sag anywhere. This is not always an easy thing to do, but to get the best look that's what the designers are doing. If it's only 1/8" that creating the sag, that is really not worth the trouble of altering. Try standing in the dress and squeeze your shoulder blades together and slightly down and your breast will raise a little. This should make the front look much better.

Hope one of these ideas helps,

Hi,
I am hoping you have some really great advice for my huge problem.
I am recently engaged and looking to find a wedding dress. My problem is that I am a 36 DD-E. I am 5'10 and about 160...relativly slim... and so my height helps but I am so large and being really discouraged about going out to look. Are there dresses out there that will fit me...can alterations be made to make me look beautiful? Is there a corset or particular strapless bra with underwire that will keep me lifted underneath the dress so that it fits beautifully?
I am particularly looking for a strapless or off the shoulder as I have heard that showing more skin takes away attention from the bust.
Thank you for your time, I hope you have a great solution!

Brandy

Good News, yes you can look great in a strapless gown! The key is not the bra it's the construction of the gown and it's really not any different for you than for a small busted lady just more important. The support has to come from the waistline which needs to be snug with boning on every seam distributing the support. The neckline should not be tight at all. If it is you get those ugly bunchies at the underarm.

Think of it like a suspension bridge, as opposed to a trapeze. The pillars of the bridge push up while the cables distribute the force evenly. On a trapeze everything is hanging from the top. One great way to ruin your shoulders which need to be relaxed to look pretty. Not to mention the ugly gullies you get from bras that try to support by hanging.

Yes, you are going to need a good bra with underwire support, but when you go shopping for your gown make sure it either has boning on every seam or that your alterationist can add it. Get a size for your bust measurement and have the waist taken in to form the base for the support. You may also need a tuck in the neckline in the front. A good Bridal Salon will be able to help you in this. It might also be a good idea to have your bra to go shopping with because back necklines very a lot. You do not want to alter the bra. That would reduce your support. Go to a store that has good fitting specialists like Victoria's Secret.

Hope this helps!

You may think the taping idea is silly, but it is done regularly. There are also spray glues that you use on your skin to hold things like necklines in place.

Can your dress be fixed? Maybe. Without seeing it I have a hard time answering. But I can tell you a few things that may or may not help.

First, most fitting problems can be fixed, but if you are wanting to change a design element you have another story. The dress you picked had a large neckline opening as a design element. This is not easily changed. You can take in the shoulder seam, which is often needed anyway. You can also try hand sewing elastic along the inside of the whole neckline. This will help it cling to the body, but might also make it pucker depending on the type of fabric and trims at the neckline. You can try threading a nylon strap or thread along the back of your neck from shoulder to shoulder to create an invisible stay to help you feel more comfortable with the wide opening. This is done in dance and skating costumes all the time.

I would also suggest adding some padding to your bust line. Are you wearing a long line bra? Many brides opt for bra cups that are sewn into the dress instead of a bra that can pinch and make you more uncomfortable if you are not used to wearing one. It sounds odd, but this might help the dress hang better and help the neckline opening set on your chest like it should. If you are a little smaller than the dress was designed for this will help smooth it out.

Next, it does not matter if you are small, medium or large busted, most nice wedding gowns are designed to fit properly when you are standing with good posture. That's chest lifted, shoulders set back and down slightly, back erect but not overly straight, butt tucked under your hips slightly so it is not sticking out. Your head may have to be shifted back also like you pushed on your chin with a finger. This will bring your ear in line with the center of your shoulder. If you feel like you are giving yourself a double chin, you've gone too far. Don't stand so stiff as a soldier would stand at attention, but you will feel that way if you are not accustom to it. The designers do it on purpose so you will look good on your special day. They did not do it to make you uncomfortable, but if standing with good posture is not a habit you have than it's not going to be easy. BUT - it is designed to make you look good. Many young ladies think their standing posture is not bad until they put on a bride's gown or maid's gown and see that the gown seems to make them look bad. It's just that thinking about posture is not an important thing in life when your clothing choices don't force the notion.

I have the feeling you are right about being rushed. It's so very easy for a bridal store to neglect taking the proper time to explain the options to you. I don't think they meant bad. I do think it a little odd that they charged you a flat rate for alterations. Most good places charge by what the dress needs done to it. Some need much more than others. On average, $200 is normal, but using it as a base for every bride is strange to me.

If I were you I would get a second opinion. Most good sewing professionals will see you and evaluate your gown without charge. Than you can decide if you can handle the added expense. There is a lot for you to think about here. Spending the added money may not be your best bet. If you are willing to send me your city and state, I can post a question for you on my professional sewing list and see if I can find you a good lady to meet with.

Once you have meet with her and gotten some advice from someone who can see the gown on you here are some things to think about:

1. Can I stand comfortably for my pictures? Pictures are very important to how you choose to alter the dress. They are your memories that will last long past the time you will forget how uncomfortable you were wearing that gown for all those hours. Standing still in a dress is very different than moving in it. Dancing, hugging, sitting, walking - all these things you will do and the dress has to do them with you. At times you may be not as comfortable as you would like, but you have to weigh that with your desire for the look you want.

I put a lot of value on comfort when it comes to wedding gowns. If you don't feel good, than how can you look good? I often advise ladies to let me make the dress a little less tight to add comfort. They always want a tiny waistline, but the risk of popping seams is not worth it. But this has to be weighed with your options for altering things you don't like about the design or fit. You may have to accept a degree of discomfort for the sake of the look you want or the inability of the dress to be changed.

2. Am I going to be dancing, eating, etc.? The activities you plan for the reception may change the way you alter the dress. If you are not dancing, you may opt for a tighter fit because you don't need to move so freely. Hugging is a big activity you will want to be able to do, so arm freedom is a biggie. Many design elements in gowns today restrict arm movement. Your wide neckline is one. Giving someone a nice view when you only meant to show familiar affection may not be your idea of a good thing. Than again, many brides do obsess about this. A wide neckline does not equate with guests staring at your cleavage. You have to force yourself to see it as they do. You looking down at your neckline are getting a much different view than someone standing in front of you is getting. Put your dress on a dress form and stand back to look. You will be amazed at the difference you see, even than looking in a mirror.

3. What is my budget? You have to weigh this added expense - that could be a lot - with the other things you could use this money for. Sure, the wedding gown is the most important item to spend money on in making your wedding plans. When the gown is right everything else just seems to fall into place. But there is a point when you have to ask yourself if you aren't going overboard about it. Only you can answer that.

Well, have I babbled enough? I didn't mean to be so wordy, but you got me to thinking about so much that I feel is important about how wedding gowns fit. I hope my thoughts have helped you some. It is really hard to give advice without seeing the gown in question. Who knows, if I did see you in this gown I might say you look simply beautiful and you should not change a thing. I do hope your wedding day is a bit off so you can have time to think about all this though. Rushing your decisions is a big taboo. After all I say about moderation and honestly asking yourself if you might be making a bigger thing out of this than it is, I do still hold that the decisions you make concerning your special wedding gown are the most important. Don't let anyone rush you.

Busts and Bodices

Got any questions or comments?